Let Him Be Frank With You

You want proof that denim should be taken seriously? Just look at J.Crew. Actually, it’s always a good idea to look at J.Crew, but this season especially as they completely overhaul their men’s line for fall. We spoke to Frank Muytjens, Head of Men’s Design, who walked us through the changes, what makes the perfect pair of jeans and his undying love for all things classic Americana—especially denim.

What inspired an update of J.Crew’s denim line, and what are the biggest changes?

Denim is such an American staple. I feel like if I wear a pair of jeans, I wear a piece of American history. We thought this was just a great opportunity to really go out and make a bigger deal of it than we ever have. We tweaked our different fits— they’re a little slimmer, so that’s the modern aspect of it, but the whole overall look is still rooted in American history and has a classic feel. Though we’re using only Japanese denim now, which is very exciting.

Why only Japanese denim?

Japanese denim is the best in the world. The mills work with superior materials and dyes, the yarn spinning, the narrow looms — they’re very meticulous and particular in how things are done. They’re always so respectful to the process.

What makes for a good, modern pair of jeans?

To me, it boils down to the fit, wash, fabric and the proportions. Also, when you try it on it just needs to feel comfortable. I love J.Crew’s classic jean. Our fit is a little tapered, the rise is a little lower and it’s a very user-friendly jean. And they fit amazing. I always like when I wear a pair of jeans and it changes your posture. It’s very important that there are no bells and whistles.

You’ve also updated the Wallace & Barnes denim line. How does that differ from the main line?

We always look at military-inspired influences and army surplus stores and we always love that the details on those garments are all functional. Wallace & Barnes is our homage to those items. It’s a little bit more rustic. We use nicer fabrics, nicer washes, things done by hand and it’s a little bit scarce. You do have a feeling like they’re something special.

How big of a role does denim play in your wardrobe?

I always like my jeans classic. I wear them unwashed, raw, so I break them in myself. That whole process of breaking in a pair of jeans: earning the whiskers and earning the fading. They mold around your body and they become almost like your fingerprint. That always fascinates me. I love wearing a whole denim look, like a denim shirt with a denim jean. I roll the cuff so you can see a bit of ankle, which I think is becoming one of J.Crew’s signatures as well. I have so many chambray shirts I can’t even put them in my closet anymore and I still feel like I need more. I like to wear a denim uniform but I also like to wear a beautiful cashmere navy sweater or a sport coat with a pair of sneakers or old, scuffed up military boots. You really can’t go wrong.