Heroes of Menswear: Patrick Assaraf
Patrick Assaraf started with a T-shirt.
He didn’t just redesign it, slapping on an ironic image or a pocket. He perfected it from its very foundations, working with a proprietary blend of Peruvian cotton and lycra, which he cut slim and flattering. Minimal. Perfect.
The Canadian designer has since expanded his namesake brand to include a full line of equally pared-down basics and sportswear-inspired pieces. His aim is to take the guesswork out of getting dressed. “Each item in the collection works with everything else, so men are able to pick and choose and it just works for them.” That means Assaraf sticks to a trend-defying palette of blacks, greys and blues, and works mainly with fabrics that are supple and soft, like merino wools and fine-gauge cashmeres. “I like the idea of feeling comfortable but modern. That’s the philosophy behind it. It looks slim, it looks modern but it’s still extremely comfortable. And that’s the key.”
“I don’t know why there needs to be so many logos, details and patterns on shirts.”
The Hero of Menswear Survey
What should every man have in his wardrobe?
A soft, cashmere navy jacket for fall and a superfine wool sweater, very light and very soft, for spring.
What’s one trend you’re tired of?
Embellished shirts. I don’t know why there needs to be so many logos, details and patterns on shirts. Everything I do is very simple, beautiful, minimalistic.
Where do you turn when you aren’t inspired?
I take off immediately. New York. Milan. Paris. London. Florence. That’s where I like to go for inspiration.
What designer do you most admire?
Philosophy wise, it would be Yohji Yamamoto. He was the first Japanese pioneer and is uncompromised when it comes to comfort and direction.
If you weren’t a designer, what would you be?
A Dressage rider.
In what era do you think men dressed best?
The late 1950s and early 1960s because there was tradition and elegance. Whether men were going to a baseball game or to a party, it was always done with elegance.
In what era do you think men dressed worst?
Twenty years ago, with the launch of casual Fridays, there was a lot of confusion in men’s wardrobes — professionals didn’t know how to wear casual clothing. Casual Friday was their introduction to the sportswear world, but they didn’t understand how to translate that to a professional environment.
Who, living or dead, would you most like to dress?
My friend Pablo Arraya, a Peruvian tennis legend. He is handsome, successful, athletic and completely clueless about dressing—something very common amongst men in North America, unfortunately.
What do you wear on a night off?
I don’t have any nights off; I dress the same from day to night. In the summer I wear faded jeans and a navy blazer. In the winter I wear black stretch jeans, a soft cashmere navy blazer and a collarless white shirt. I dress monochromatically with an emphasis on luxurious and soft fabrics.
What do you think is the next big trend in menswear?
A sporty and modern fit. Not as skinny as in the past, but still slim and tailored, and softness and comfort are very important.
Lighting Round! Pick one:
Single or double-breasted? High three-button jacket.
Bow tie or regular tie? Neither.
Pleated pants or not? Five-pocket pants, no pleats.
Chinos or jeans? Need to be clean and fitted — blue jeans in summer, black jeans in winter.
Sneakers or Oxfords? Sneakers — clean, modern and matte in white, navy or black.
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