On Tuesday, BOSS made its triumphant return to the runway at New York Men’s Fashion Week. It marked the storied German label’s first menswear show under newly-minted chief brand officer Ingo Wilts.
Suits, as you’d probably expect, were at the forefront of the collection, but Wilts looked back to the ’80s and ’90s to inform the looser, boxier cuts that sailed down the runway. Dress shirts and ties were nowhere to be found, replaced instead with turtlenecks and half-zips, along with some chunkier sweaters for good measure. To top it all off, there were outerwear pieces aplenty, from a rethought trench coat with prominent details, roomy overcoats, and even a cape.
Read on for a look at what we think you should be wearing once the collection hits stores this fall.
Obviously, military is a key source and inspiration for men’s fashion, so it’s always interesting to see what brands will do with that legacy and look. This coat stood out to me for it’s distinct silhouette, and it’s details. It’s an intimidating piece, but paired with the right suit, it’ll be an impressive look.
With a line full of greys and blacks (perfect for men in cities like Toronto) this merlot (is that what we’d call it?) was a welcome shift. Keeping the steely tone, but giving just enough colour to stand out. It’s a colour that isn’t too daunting—sombre, but just a bit showy.
Another great colour. It’s in the cut of the coats that you can really feel the callback to the ’80s and ’90s. Whereas I don’t know if I’m personally ready to embrace the looser fitting suit, I can definitely get behind the roomier cut of this coat. It’s got just the right amount of gangster to feel powerful, without being cartoonish.
Call me a traditionalist, but this was quite possibly my favourite look of the evening. Simple. Monochromatic—which carries it’s own subtle power—and a cut that mixes the best of contemporary style (the big cuffs, the not-quite-loose fit of the trousers, slim shoulders) with potent call backs from the power suits of the ’80s and ’90s. Yes please.
While I’m not completely sold on the oversized cut of some of the pants shown, including these, I still feel the principles included in this look are spot on. Elegant black tie, without the tie; both roomy and sleek; classic lapels. Beautiful.