The SHARP List: Our 2023 Gift Guide for Watch Lovers
Let’s not kid ourselves — as people whose job it is to look at timepieces for a good part of every working day, we spend a lot of time shopping for, if not actually buying, watches. In fact, one of the trickiest parts of being a watch writer is keeping yourself from regularly spending several months’ worth of mortgage payments on the latest and greatest marvels from Switzerland, Japan, and Germany. This time of year, though, with the holiday season in full swing and the spirit of giving in the air, it might finally be time to pull the trigger. Here are the watches we’re coveting hardest right now.
Tudor Black Bay 54
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If you think they’d appreciate a versatile tool watch with a distinctive vintage aesthetic, look no further. The new Tudor Black Bay 54 is an homage to the brand’s first-ever dive watch, the Reference 7922 released in 1954. The new model recalls this historic design with an incredibly practical 37 mm case and a COSC-certified chronometer movement made in-house by Tudor. ($5,340)
Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture
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This arrival is an interesting one — the tourbillon is far more present in the industry than its been in years past, however there’s still a significant gap in the market. You can drop six figures on a watch with a tourbillon and other fine finishing details, and you can go to the dregs of Amazon and AliExpress to find a hideous basket-case tourbillon that’ll gain several minutes a day and kick the bucket if you look at it the wrong way. The in-between, that “here’s proper value in a tourbillon watch from a respected maker that isn’t going to cost you a small mortgage” is scarce territory, and Frederique Constant makes the best example we’ve seen in years. No, it’s not inexpensive, but in contrast to others that we would consider recommending, it’s a rather reasonable bargain. ($19,995)
Accutron Astronaut Limited Edition
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Even now, we still have a soft spot for Neo-Vintage design. A historically accurate recreation packed with a modern caliber and materials? Yes, please. This Accutron is a nod to the brand’s connection with NASA, as the American brand was heavily involved in space operations, including having their electronic movements used as cockpit instruments in space missions dating back to Vanguard 1 in 1958. There’s a ton of history here and we’re all for it. ($4,500)
Montblanc 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph P.05
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While we talk history, the Montblanc 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph P.05 is another watch that’s hard to not fall for. Minerva mechanical movements play a major role in the history of timekeeping, and since the brand’s acquisition by Montblanc we’ve been seeing a slow and steady roll-out of watches that tip a hat to those earlier days. In this case, we see a piece that references a Minerva timepiece from 1939, powered by a hand-wound and hand-finished mechanical monopusher caliber. Designed in collaboration with Eric Wind for Collective Horology, only 30 of these watches will ever be made.($47,565 at Collective Horology)
Rolex Perpetual 1908
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Rolex had a few “heroes” this year, but the real surprise came in the form of the new Perpetual 1908 collection. A clean and proper dress watch from Rolex with design details that leave its tool watch ethos behind, the 1908 is a refreshing example of high level watchmaking simplicity. We’re here for it, and we’re eager to see what the brand does with this new family member in the years to come. ($26,050)
Hamilton Murph 38mm
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Hamilton has a long tradition of putting watches on the big screen, from the Ventura worn by Elvis in 1961’s Blue Hawaii to the Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO seen in 2020’s sci-fi thriller, Tenet, but the Khaki Field Murph, first worn by Jessica Chastain in Christopher Nolan’s 2014 film Interstellar, is among its most popular. For many Hamilton fans, however, (this editor included) the Murph’s original 42mm case size was just a little too big. This season, thankfully, Hamilton joins a growing number of brands who are increasingly listening to fans’ requests and has come through with a 38mm version just in time for the holidays. ($1,140)
Seiko King Seiko
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Seiko has been dropping so many covetable new designs of late it presents a real problem for the prospective buyer. How to choose? Fortunately, between its interesting history (King Seiko was born in the 1960s to create higher-end watches, much like Grand Seiko does today) and faithful 1960s execution (check the 37mm case size), the King Seiko still manages to stand out. With several dial variations and a bevy of beautifully textured leather straps on offer, this might be the coolest “new” piece of the year. Now to choose between the red dial and the brown… ($2,195)
Bulova Commodore
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My first watch was a 1970s Bulova I inherited from my grandfather, so I have a soft spot for this brand. For anyone else, however, it shouldn’t be hard to find something you like in their extensive catalogue, particularly when it comes to vintage re-editions like the Oceanographer and Lunar Pilot (aka the other moon watch). My pick, however, would be the new limited-edition Commodore from the Joseph Bulova capsule collection. Between its unique wire lugs, its handsome salmon dial, and its vintage 34mm sizing, they’ve really nailed the details in every aspect. ($1,695)
Zodiac Olympos Field
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Just when I thought I couldn’t possibly need another field watch. Much like 1960s-style chronographs and 1970s sports watches with integrated bracelets, the field watch is one of those genres that collectors can’t seem to get enough of. While better known for its divers these days, this archival re-edition from 1961 reveals another side of Zodiac, and I’m totally here for it. The textured gradient dial and the unusual “manta” shaped case are clearly the stars here, but it has plenty of other features that should earn it a spot on any field watch lover’s wrist. ($895 USD)
NOMOS Club Sport Neomatik Petrol
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The NOMOS Club Sport is basically my ideal everyday watch: understated, well-made, and timeless. And now they’ve just gone ahead and made it a little bit better, with a new version for 2022 in two unique dial colours. The specs tell most of the story: 37mm steel case with a very wearable thickness of 8.3mm, quick-change steel bracelet, 200m water resistance, in-house DUW 3001 calibre, SuperLuminova and, last but certainly not least, that beautiful sunray-brushed “petrol green” dial. Come to papa. ($4,224)
Panerai Luminor Quaranta Verde Militare (PAM01304)
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Coming from the Firenze brand known for its “go big or go home” design ethos, this newest variant is a redacted take on the beloved Luminor. It’s been ages since there was a 40mm version of this watch in the current catalog, and with a freshly slimmed down case profile, the brand is once again aligned with shifts in collecting preferences. As a watch collector and enthusiast with smaller wrists myself, this case size fits like a glove, without seeming too small for those with larger wrists to enjoy. It’s currently in the office for testing, so keep an eye out for a more thorough review soon. ($9,500)
VERO Watches Workhorse “The Hooligan” Limited Edition
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The tank-like nature of the VERO Workhorse has been winning fans for a while now — a watch with a case design that walks an aesthetic line somewhere between a Seiko Tuna and a G-Shock without seeming the least bit derivative. Just because it’s meant to be a proper tool watch doesn’t mean it can’t be fun, and that’s just what Toronto-based designer Matt Smith-Johnson of Sentient Creative set out to do when he penned this limited edition variant. The smiling face with the missing eye is a nod to the rugged ethos, being a watch that will happily take whatever punishment you can serve it. It’s also worth noting that this design provided a little inspiration for the off-road Porsche Boxter of Nicholas Hanlon (AKA @944Rallye on Instagram). This is the kind of original and playful watch design that we’re constantly itching to see more of. The only sad part is that they only made 120 of these things. ($425 USD)
Breitling Superocean Automatic 44
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Not to worry, not every watch we’re coveting this year is diminutive in stature. Case in point, the absolutely stellar Breitling Superocean 44 that launched earlier in 2022. A complete redesign of the collection, the new Superocean does a rather impressive dance between its nod to heritage, and otherwise modern design — what the brand likes to refer to as its “modern-retro” design ethos. Call it what you want, I’ll call it worthy of a spot on your wrist. ($5,700)
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ceratanium
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As someone who’s not a fan of the Top Gun franchise in the least (sorry, not sorry), it’s surprising how easily I fall for IWC’s pilot chronographs that bear its name. The latest hero is the Ceratanium version of the Pilot’s Chronograph — a watch with a case crafted of the brand’s new titanium-ceramic composite. The combination of an in-house manufacture caliber, a new material, and an all-black aesthetic make this new piece pretty easy to fall for. That said, opting for its steel sibling will cut more than $6,000 from its list price. ($16,200)
TAG Heuer
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If you were scrolling through SHARP online back in March, you may well remember this one. I spent some time reviewing the new Aquaracer 200 from TAG Heuer, and it was a very easy one to fall in love with. From its design cues that go back to the ’80s/’90s TAG divers, to its impressive fit, finish, and overall value, the 200 is a home run. Other references i the collection continue to trickle in, but this understated version remains the hero for now.
Sō Labs Layer Two
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We’re taking a peculiar detail for this one, but trust me when I say these new watches are worth your attention. About as unique as they come, the Sō Labs Layer Two takes the out-of-the-box dial and hand design from its budget quartz watch, and steps up the game with stainless steel cases, a new bracelet design, and most notably the move to a Swiss Sellita SW220-1 self-winding movement. Rather than conventionally displaying a day and date complication, those discs were repurposed with gradient displays that provide an additional bit of colour to the dial that changes with each passing day. ($965 USD)
Linde Werdelin 3 Timer Sunset Red
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As the brand celebrates its 20th anniversary, Linde Werdelin has unveiled a final series of their bold and angular 3 Timer. The red dial variant immediately found a home in my heart — a colour that has frequently found home in my watch collection, but also one that has recently been more “on trend” than ever. In the watch world, red is the new green, on the heels of green being the new blue. It won’t be for everyone, but these watches have a distinct character that’s only rivalled by how surprisingly comfortable they are when strapped onto your wrist. ($6,717 USD)
Scurfa Top Side Crew
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I’m closing the list out with the most affordable watch of the pack. Why? Because after years of hearing from fellow collectors about the build spec of Paul Scurfield’s watches, I pulled the trigger on one, and you should too. Scurfield has been a commercial deepsea diver for over 30 years now, and each of his watches is built to suite those who actually work in those environments. The Top Side Crew still has a screw-down crown, and 200m of water resistance (in case you get tossed overboard), but more than anything its an incredibly sharp and refined affordable watch that’s safe to wear and take anywhere. With growing concerns over luxury watch theft in the world’s most-loved travel destinations, it’s a good watch to have even if the rest of your collection has a sticker price with a few more zeros on the end. ($308, based on GBP to CAD conversion)
