In decades past, the world’s major watch brands could be relied upon to present their biggest releases of the year each spring at the industry’s major trade show in Basel. These days, however, things aren’t quite so simple. Over the last five years, Baselworld has been replaced by Watches & Wonders Geneva, and a number of other smaller watch trade shows have popped up throughout the year. The most influential of these, perhaps, is Geneva Watch Days, a decentralized event held throughout the city in early September. From humble beginnings in 2020, Geneva Watch Days (or GWD in watch industry parlance) has gathered strength, with nearly 70 brands ranging from indie upstarts to major players on the official roster for 2025. The biggest proof of GWD’s growing clout, however, is the impressively high standard of new releases that were revealed at this year’s event. Here are the ones we’re most excited about.

TAG Heuer Astronomer

TAG Heuer Astronomer. Photo courtesy of TAG Heuer.
TAG Heuer Astronomer. Photo courtesy of TAG Heuer.
TAG Heuer Astronomer. Photo courtesy of TAG Heuer.
TAG Heuer Astronomer. Photo courtesy of TAG Heuer.

TAG Heuer Astronomer

1 of 4

TAG Heuer Astronomer

2 of 4

TAG Heuer Astronomer

3 of 4

TAG Heuer Astronomer

4 of 4

Learn More

This limited-edition (capped at just 1000 pieces across two variants) is said to be inspired by TAG Heuer’s role in John Glenn’s Friendship 7 mission in 1962 and features one of the more interesting moon phase displays we’ve seen. ($5,950)

Zenith x USM Chronomaster Revival

Zenith x USM Chronomaster Revival. Courtesy of Zenith.
Zenith x USM Chronomaster Revival. Courtesy of Zenith.
Zenith x USM Chronomaster Revival. Courtesy of Zenith.
Zenith x USM Chronomaster Revival. Courtesy of Zenith.
Zenith x USM Chronomaster Revival. Courtesy of Zenith.

Zenith x USM Chronomaster Revival

1 of 5

Zenith x USM Chronomaster Revival

2 of 5

Zenith x USM Chronomaster Revival

3 of 5

Zenith x USM Chronomaster Revival

4 of 5

Zenith x USM Chronomaster Revival

5 of 5

Learn More

And the award for most smile-inducing launch of the season goes to this collab between the maker of the El Primero and colour-loving Swiss furniture brand USM. If you’re having trouble deciding which of the four primary hues you like best, just go for the boxed set presented inside its own custom-made USM cabinet. ($16,000)

Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3

Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3
Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3. Courtesy of Ferdinand Berthoud.
Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3. Courtesy of Ferdinand Berthoud.
Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3. Courtesy of Ferdinand Berthoud.
Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3. Courtesy of Ferdinand Berthoud.
Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3. Courtesy of Ferdinand Berthoud.
Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3. Courtesy of Ferdinand Berthoud.

Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3

1 of 7

Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3

2 of 7

Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3

3 of 7

Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3

4 of 7

Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3

5 of 7

Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3

6 of 7

Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3

7 of 7

Learn More

Over the course of six years, this Chopard-owned Swiss indie spent more than 11,000 hours creating this true masterpiece of high watchmaking. Each of the Montre 3’s 747 components was made with hand-operated tools, and the result is as technically astounding as it is eye-wateringly priced. Bravo. (CHF 850,000)

Gérald Genta Minute Repeater

Gérald Genta Minute Repeater.
Gérald Genta Minute Repeater. Photo courtesy of Gérald Genta.
Gérald Genta Minute Repeater. Photo courtesy of Gérald Genta.

Gérald Genta Minute Repeater

1 of 3

Gérald Genta Minute Repeater

2 of 3

Gérald Genta Minute Repeater

3 of 3

Learn More

Whatever your feelings about Gerald Genta, we dare you to find something not to like about this ultra-minimal minute repeater. Made by La Fabriques du Temps, which is overseeing the brand’s revival under Louis Vuitton, it reflects the balance between aesthetic flair and traditional watchmaking know-how that earned Genta his reputation. (CHF 320,000)

Furlan Marri Disco Diamonds Onyx

Furlan Marri Disco Diamonds Onyx
Furlan Marri Disco Diamonds Onyx. Courtesy of Furlan Marri.

Furlan Marri Disco Diamonds Onyx

1 of 2

Furlan Marri Disco Diamonds Onyx

2 of 2

Learn More

The latest drop from this star of indie watchmaking is perhaps its biggest swing yet, and we’re here for it. With the flying saucer look of its popular Disco Volante, an onyx stone dial, and a set of lab-grown diamond markers, it’s equal parts sassy and sophisticated. (CHF 3,500)

Frederique Constant Classics Premiere

Frederique Constant Classics Premiere. Photo courtesy of Frederique Constant.
Frederique Constant Classics Premiere. Photo courtesy of Frederique Constant.
Frederique Constant Classics Premiere. Photo courtesy of Frederique Constant.

Frederique Constant Classics Premiere

1 of 3

Frederique Constant Classics Premiere

2 of 3

Frederique Constant Classics Premiere

3 of 3

Learn More

In less skilled hands, combining classical elements like Breguet numerals and pomme hands with a 1930s salmon dial and a modern steel case could have easily gone wrong. With its newest take on the Classics Premiere, however, Frederique Constant threaded the needle with typical aplomb. ($3,395)

BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan

BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan. Photo courtesy of BVLGARI.
BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan. Photo courtesy of BVLGARI.
BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan. Photo courtesy of BVLGARI.
BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan. Photo courtesy of BVLGARI.
BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan. Photo courtesy of BVLGARI.
BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan. Photo courtesy of BVLGARI.

BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan

1 of 6

BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan

2 of 6

BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan

3 of 6

BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan

4 of 6

BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan

5 of 6

BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan

6 of 6

Learn More

This limited-edition collab from Korean-born, Japan-based artist Lee Ufan outfits BULGARI’s ultra-thin Octo with a mirrored dial and a hand-filed titanium case and bracelet. Inspired by the contrast between the immovability of a rock and the infinite reflections of a mirror, it’s one of the most intriguing examples of an artist-designed watch in recent years. ($26,300)

QP Balancier by Greubel Forsey

QP Balancier. Photo by Greubel Forsey
QP Balancier. Photo by Greubel Forsey
QP Balancier. Photo by Greubel Forsey

QP Balancier by Greubel Forsey

1 of 3

QP Balancier by Greubel Forsey

2 of 3

QP Balancier by Greubel Forsey

3 of 3

Learn More

This marvel of horological engineering purports to solve one of the biggest problems with perpetual calendar watches by making all of its 12 functions and indications adjustable via a single crown. Powered by Greubel Forsey’s patented “Mechanical Computer,” it adjusts easily in either direction, restarts instantly after months unwound, and stays programmed until the year 2100. (CHF 490,000)

Berneron Quantième

Berneron Quantième Annuel . Photo courtesy of BERNERON.
Berneron Quantième Annuel . Photo courtesy of BERNERON.
Berneron Quantième Annuel . Photo courtesy of BERNERON.
Berneron Quantième Annuel . Photo courtesy of BERNERON.
Berneron Quantième Annuel . Photo courtesy of BERNERON.

Berneron Quantième

1 of 5

Berneron Quantième

2 of 5

Berneron Quantième

3 of 5

Berneron Quantième

4 of 5

Berneron Quantième

5 of 5

Learn More

The sophomore offering from Berneron does more than live up to the hype generated by its debut. In addition to its arresting good looks, it can be set easily using the crown and a pair of discreet pushers, with no risk of damaging the movement. Consider the stage set for the brand’s next release in 2028. (CHF 120,000)