Grand Seiko’s 2024 Releases: Its Most Exclusive Watch Gets a New Look

Jeremy Freed April 12, 2024

From its Hi-Beat movements to its famed Zaratsu finishing to its dials inspired by Japan’s most pristine corners of wild nature, Grand Seiko takes a decidedly unique approach to the craft of watchmaking. This is never more apparent than in an exhibition hall full of the who’s who of Swiss watch brands, where Grand Seiko sticks out like a Shinto shrine amid a landscape of Swiss gingerbread chalets, or a tray of sashimi on a table set with fondue and buendnerfleisch. Grand Seiko’s distinctive approach to movements, finishing, and dials, however, is what people love about this Japanese luxury watch brand, and its new crop of watches revealed this week at Watches & Wonders in Geneva delivers in top form. Here are the ones we’re most impressed with.

Masterpiece Collection: Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon, “Daybreak” (SLGT005)

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The Kodo (whose status as one of the few Grand Seiko pieces deemed worthy of a non-numeric name says volumes about how special it is) was launched in 2022, and gave Grand Seiko a major boost in cred as the first watch to combine a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism as one unit on a single axis. This year’s new, highly limited Kodo doesn’t offer any changes to the tour-de-force movement, but instead mixes up the aesthetics with a look said to be inspired by early morning light. This translates to silver-tone components, a titanium and platinum case, blue sapphire bearings and a lacquered leather strap inspired by samurai armour.

Evolution 9 Collection: Manual-Winding Mechanical
Hi-Beat (SLGW002 & SLGW003)

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Some watches are about the movement, some are about the dial, and some — like these two beauties — are about both. The new Caliber 9SA4 powering this watch is the first hand-wound high-beat movement created by Grand Seiko in more than 50 years and a follow-up to last year’s show-stealing “Tentagraph” chronograph. If the Tentagraph is the sporty member of the family, the SLGW002 and SLGW003 are decidedly more refined, with sleek 38.6mm cases made of rose gold or Brilliant Hard Titanium and a dial inspired by the white birches that thrive in near Grand Seiko’s famed Shizukuishi Studio. The rose gold edition is limited to just 80 pieces (in honour of the watch’s 80-hour power reserve) but the titanium version will be available widely as of August.

Sport Collection: Mechanical Hi-Beat, “Snowy Valley” (SBGJ277)

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Grand Seiko already has half a dozen GMT variants in its stable, but you can’t blame them for adding another — especially one that looks as cool as this. The watch is powered by the mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 GMT Caliber 9S86 automatic movement vibrating at 10 beats per second and features a burly 14.8mm thick and 44mm diameter case that’s water resistant to 200m.

In addition to these bona fides, it offers a unique look dubbed “snowy valley” for the way it evokes a mountain valley covered in snow. As Grand Seiko puts it, “The magnificent mountain scenery of the snow juxtaposed with greenery on a summer mountain is reproduced in the contrast of the snow-white colour of the dial alongside the green of the rotating bezel and its ring of sapphire glass. These changing seasonal gradations form a beautiful expression of the passage of time.”

Sport Collection: Automatic Spring Drive 3-Day GMT (SBGE307)

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If Hi-Beat isn’t your jam, Grand Seiko has another new GMT that’s sure to hit the spot. The mechanical-electronic hybrid Spring Drive 9R66 movement powering the new SBGE307, however, isn’t its only notable feature. Through subtle details like claw-shaped lugs and a dial texture inspired by a lion’s mane, the SBGE307 evokes Grand Seiko’s feline mascot. With a 72-hour power reserve, 200m water resistance and (thanks to Spring Drive) an impressive accuracy of ±15 seconds per month, this is a GMT that’s worthy of the top of the food chain.