Kim Jones must have vacationed by the sea. Or perhaps he’s a fan of The Lighthouse. While either might explain the nautical theme of Dior’s Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collection, the melancholy felt drawn from the latter. So, too, was the reading of T.S. Eliot which was provided by Robert Pattinson — a Dior man, who delivered lines with the same energy and intonation as in The Lighthouse — and Gwendoline Christie, with the backing of a string ensemble, as models slowly walked the runway. Pattinson and Christie were but two of the vast sea of celebs in attendance at this memorable showing
Patent leather outerwear called to mind the sheen of a fisherman’s well-worn rubber jacket. Inseams were shortened, creating a very chic version of flood pants; on tops, the sleeves were sometimes shortened, as well, something that one finds in maritime communities where fishermen ofter have to get their hands wet — more convenient than having to constantly roll up one’s sleeves. And more aesthetically interesting, too. There were vests and jackets that featured chest padding and collars reminiscent of flotation jackets. Needless to say, there were beautiful fishermen-style knits, as well.
Jones is a skilled and tactful designer. Most fascinating in his channelling of the nautical theme was a seeming exploration of pearls — something tied to the idea of terrestrial luxury, but born in the water. Mother of pearl detailing adorned shirting and knitwear, but the broader palette also called to mind the lustrous sheen of pearls, creamy whites that turn a bit grey but occasionally reveal a pop of colour — in this case, blue and yellow — as your perspective changes.
And, this being Kim Jones’ Dior, there was more to this collection than an aesthetically appealing study of water. Sharp tailoring was accompanied by luxurious knits and just enough in the way of detailing — cinched biceps, polka dots, animal prints, mélange wools — to make even the most timeless pieces stand out.