Sometimes, there’s no overarching theme to a clothing collection. And, sometimes, that’s a good thing. Case in point: Hermès Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collection, which was shown on Saturday, in Paris. To be fair, there are probably ways to make the collection about something — to make it mean something. But that would be a disservice to what the show was actually about: the clothes.
Elegant, refined, technical. All are adjectives one might use to describe Véronique Nichanian’s latest Hermès collection, but it’s perhaps the last one that feels most appropriate. Functional, asymmetrical zippers on anoraks called to mind techwear staples, so, too, did the contrast taping on a grey Mac coat — except, in this instance, it was a way to transform taping for snap buttons into a intriguing design detail that offered a pop of sky blue. There were technical outerwear jackets and even the suiting featured contrast panels at the ribs, mixing leather and wool together.
As other brands rediscover neckties and formal attire, Hermès embraced turtlenecks and other neck-covering collars alongside their functional, technical clothing. On the whole, it’s par for the course for Hermès, a maison that stays the course when others swerve, choosing to churn out luxurious clothes that can actually worn on a daily basis over the latest trend.
Often, the result is beautiful — and, on Saturday, it definitely was.