Here’s What You Can Learn From the UK’s Foremost Menswear Expert

Nicholas.mizera April 6, 2016

Simon Crompton has written the book on the finest menswear in the world. Literally. The UK-based author’s latest work — aptly titled The Finest Menswear in the World — details in-depth the connoisseur’s quest to find the very best garments the globe has to offer, from suiting to swimwear. With his knowledge of all things artisanal, tailored and handcrafted, we caught up with Crompton to get his philosophy on essential dressing and bespoke style.

The Essentials

Crompton keeps coming back to three key pieces he’s rarely caught without (and that any guy can pull off).

1. The Blue Blazer

Too-contemporary details like skinny lapels and short length undermine the staple’s timeless appeal, says Crompton. He suggests springing for a more casual fabric like cashmere, in stark contrast to the smooth, sharp and hard worsted wool suits are made from — often a dead giveaway that you’re wearing a dissected two-piece.

2. Dark Brown Shoes

Whether it’s a pair of brogues, plain captoes or versatile Oxfords, dark brown shoes are the ideal complement to most suits you’ll wear to the office.

3. The Grenadine Necktie

There are two types of grenadines in this world: small knot and large knot. While the finer-knit sort appear too formal for Crompton’s taste, the more casual variety still look great paired with a suit or a tweed jacket and trousers. Reach for an untipped grenadine with hand-rolled edges for a roguish touch. “You can see the cloth in a way you don’t necessarily do with silk ties,” says Crompton.

Start Simple

Guys tend to go overboard with their first bespoke suit. “They get an unusual cloth, an unusual lining, unusual lapels — all these kinds of crazy things,” says Crompton. This results in a unique but rarely worn garment. Keep things conservative to ensure your investment stays in your rotation, and express your style with small personal touches — a subtle but fun lining, for instance.

Ease Into It

While it’s tempting to dive straight into building a complete bespoke collection, Crompton says slowing down will help you make the most of it. Adding to it piece by piece gives you time to develop your personal style. It will feel more rewarding and help you avoid making too many mistakes (see above).

Find the Right Fit

Adjusting an off-the-rack piece can only help so much if you have an “awkward” body shape, says Crompton. Bespoke suiting can balance your proportions if you’re taller than average or ensure a dapper drape if one shoulder is lower than the other.

Alter Your Off-the-Rack

That said, there’s nothing wrong with purchasing less expensive pieces ready-to-wear if bespoke is cost-prohibitive — as long as you’re committed to a perfect fit. “Always put aside 10 per cent of your budget to have it altered,” says Crompton. For jackets in particular, ensure they fit well over the neck and shoulders, first — the waist and other details are easy fixes.

Don’t Sweat the Small Stuff

When buying bespoke, jackets and suits are Crompton’s top priorities, followed by trousers and shirts (though the latter can be easily tailored off the rack). However, there’s no point in getting bespoke socks, hats and neckties, says Crompton with a laugh.

Construction is Everything

You can’t go wrong buying the highest quality level you can afford when going off-the-rack, says Crompton. Spring for a jacket with a floating (not fused) canvas in a heavier cloth, which will last much longer and hang nicely.

Bend the rules

No white after labour day, no brown in town — “Like most kinds of sayings and aphorisms in life, they have some wisdom in them but the key is to work out what that wisdom is,” says Crompton. Most menswear “rules” really just mean dress for the occasion and environment, so keep that in mind.

Take it easy

Sprezzatura, elegance and nonchalance are all code words for confidence. “Someone who’s at ease with themselves always looks attractive and stylish, and somebody who looks very awkward and fussy with their clothes never does,” says Crompton. Build confidence by starting with subtle and muted pieces before working your way up. “It takes a long time, but that’s why it’s rewarding,” he says.