How to Eat Caviar on a Tuesday
Welcome to the era of living like it’s going out of style. Maybe it’s a response to the apocalyptic tone that’s defining modern news coverage, but things that previously felt best reserved for special occasions — velvet, say — are now a regular part of our Tuesday nights. The latest development in this embrace of all things lavish: the triumphant comeback of caviar. Suddenly, restaurants are incorporating the once-stuffy status symbol in fun new ways, like as a playful — albeit still $80 extra — garnish on dinner omelettes at Toronto’s La Banane.
“There’s this reputation of luxury there, because it originated from the Caspian Sea and has been a favourite of royalty,” says Med Khandan, director of operations at Toronto’s Caviar Centre. “Whether you’re enjoying it at a big wedding or a dinner out, its prestige makes that night really memorable.” So go ahead — order some caviar on a Tuesday.
ORDER IT:
Three deluxe dining spots making classic caviar service cool again.
Pigeonhole, Calgary
pigeonholeyyc.ca
La Banane, Toronto
labanane.ca
The Pool, New York
thepoolnewyork.com
Buy It:
$
Salmon roe
($30/ounce)
Not sturgeon eggs — and thus, not caviar by traditional standards. Saltier and mushier.
$$
Siberian sturgeon
($75/ounce)
Accessibly priced, but still swish enough that it’s from fish farmed in Venice.
$$$
Russian Osetra sturgeon
($140/ounce)
Laid by fish that can live up to 50 years. The lighter the eggs, the older the fish.
$$$!
Beluga Huso huso
($350/ounce)
A perfect balance of salty and buttery tastes that was once reserved for royalty.
SERVE IT:
The Vessel
Blini pancakes, mini toasts, and eggs are the usual options. But to really anoint caviar as a part of everyday life, opt for a $4 bag of Ruffles. High, meet low — and deliciously complementary.
The Toppings
To build out your buffet spread, Khandan recommends chopped chives and onions for a hit of something herby, or unsalted butter and crème fraîche to really add to the richness of your roe.
The Spoons
“Don’t use metallic or silver,” Khandan warns, noting that these can ruin the flavour of the eggs. Instead, opt for mother-of-pearl or wooden servingware, or if you’re looking to invest, gold.
