The Cartier Tank: A Comprehensive Guide
Few watches are as recognizable or resilient as the Cartier Tank. Initially created in 1917, the iconic model’s design (said to have been inspired by the Peugeot tanks driven by the French during the First World War) is a master class in elegant simplicity, with its austere dial framed by two sets of parallel lines. The century since has given rise to countless variations on the classic style, from the “digital” Tank à Guichets to the pagoda-inspired Tank Chinoise. Today, the watch remains one of the most popular models in Cartier’s collection, with more than a half-dozen distinct sub-lines and myriad variations on movement, material, case size, and dial design. Here, we present an essential guide to the main Tank models.
Tank Louis Cartier
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Louis Cartier was the third-generation to head up the house of Cartier, and the visionary who established the brand’s enduring, ever-recognizable design language. Consequently, the Tank model that bears his name is perhaps the most quintessential, with a case characterized by taut lines and slightly softened corners. Yet, despite its historic origins, the Tank Louis Cartier remains perennially fresh, thanks to a new crop of patterned, colourful dials — just as Monsieur Cartier would have wanted it. ($17,400)
Tank Française
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“It was about capturing the watch’s radical shape, simplifying its essential lines, and stripping them of all embellishment,” says Marie-Laure Cérède, Cartier’s creative director of jewellery and watchmaking, of the Française collection’s creation in 1996. It was a stark departure from previous models, and the Tank Française continues to set itself apart from the crowd with a slightly curved metal bracelet that mirrors the square shape of its case. ($6,250)
Tank Asymétrique
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While the Tank’s restrained design hasn’t changed significantly since 1917, Cartier isn’t above turning a classic on its head, as it did in 1936 with the first Tank Asymétrique. In 2020, this uniquely parallelogram-shaped model returned to the collection with a new cutaway dial. Available exclusively in rose gold and platinum, this Tank features skeletonized, blue-lacquered bridges that span the manual winding calibre 9623 MC movement. ($92,000)
Tank Must
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The 1970s was a period of unbridled creativity and reinvention for all traditional watchmakers. So, staying true to the times, the Maison introduced the Must de Cartier, a youthful expression of the famous rectangular watch with a selection of onyx, coral, ivory, and garnet-inspired dials. Cartier reintroduced the Tank Must in 2021 with a selection of retro-inspired dials, stainless steel cases, and quartz movements. It may be the most affordable of the Tanks, but that doesn’t mean it’s a compromise. ($3,900)
Tank Américaine
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Launched in 1989, the Tank Américaine is based on the Tank Cintrée, which was introduced in 1921 and featured a curved, ergonomic case. With a more compact rectangular shape and rounded brancards (Cartier’s term for the vertical bars that incorporate the lugs), the Tank Américaine introduced a more modern feel to the collection; it was the first Cartier watch to feature a curved, water-resistant case. For anyone seeking out a classic Tank with a singular look, this is the one. (Price upon request)
