Accuracy Matters: Why TUDOR Watches Are Still So Hard to Beat
TUDOR x SHARP
This time of year, conversations about watches and watchmaking all seem to all run in the same vein. As editors covering the category, the typical questions include: What watch brand would you recommend as a first luxury watch? How do I choose the right watch for my significant other that I know will last them a lifetime? What watches are actually as rugged as their marketing suggests? Though it takes a bit more analysis to get someone to the watch best suited to their specific needs, more often than not we find TUDOR watches at the top of mind.
Aside from its rich heritage and timeless design, there are a number of key factors that make the beloved brand so hard to beat. The value proposition posed by TUDOR has always been impressive, and anyone who’s had the joy of handling any TUDOR timepieces firsthand — whether the classically styled Black Bay 58 that was refreshed this year with a charming burgundy dial, or the refined yet rugged new titanium Pelagos Ultra — knows that the fit and finish of every piece on offer is at a level that easily matches or outpaces its competition. The brand’s 2025 releases further bolstered this reputation as well, expanding the number of pieces available with METAS-certified calibers, but we’ll get to that later. That said, value and quality in watchmaking often goes far beyond what one can see and feel.
Manufacturing Control — The Path to Consistent Quality
In early 2023, TUDOR opened the doors to a new manufacturing, testing, and assembly facility in Switzerland. Bringing its operations into Le Locle, the new facility shares a wall with the TUDOR-owned movement manufacture, Kenissi, which is responsible for the construction of its in-house manufacture calibers; we’ll touch on that in a moment. This proximity and control not only helps streamline development processes, but it also ensures that those leading production can maintain close eyes on all aspects of operation and address quality control matters far more effectively than brands who rely on conventional supplier chains.
Every component supplier that TUDOR uses for its movements is either fully owned or majority-owned by TUDOR (or its parent company, Rolex). In contrast, the brand relies on external suppliers for its dials, hands, cases, and bracelets; this is quite standard practice throughout the industry, and for a major player like TUDOR, it’s an effective way to keep operating costs in check without sacrificing in quality.
In-House Manufacture Calibers — Innovation and Efficiency
In-House Manufacture Calibers — Innovation and Efficiency
In-House Manufacture Calibers — Innovation and Efficiency
In-House Manufacture Calibers — Innovation and Efficiency
In-House Manufacture Calibers — Innovation and Efficiency
In-House Manufacture Calibers — Innovation and Efficiency
In-House Manufacture Calibers — Innovation and Efficiency
In-House Manufacture Calibers — Innovation and Efficiency
In-House Manufacture Calibers — Innovation and Efficiency
In-House Manufacture Calibers — Innovation and Efficiency
The term “in-house” is one that occasionally gets debated in the watch world, in terms of what it really stands for and what makes a movement worthy of the title. In the case of TUDOR, it’s rather literal, in that the brand has been designing its own MT — Manufacture TUDOR — series calibers since 2015, with its movement construction taking place under close guidance at Kenissi, which it owns.
What’s important to consider with these calibers isn’t just that they’re of in-house design and construction, but that they’re more advanced, robust, and accurate than the supplied calibers they replace. While there’s nothing inherently wrong with the supplied calibers from ETA and Sellita being used by other brands, the TUDOR calibers found in the various Black Bay and Pelagos references all boast nearly double the mechanical power reserve, of these competitors, all while maintaining impeccable accuracy of between 5 and 6 seconds per day depending on the certification process the watch in question needs to pass. This in turn brings us to our final metric — the testing and certification process known as METAS.
METAS Master Chronometer Certification — Why Does It Matter?
When talking of reliability and accuracy — especially with watches in this value-luxury segment — METAS Master Chronometer certification is a gamechanger. Each watch goes through a series of accuracy tests, including tests at varying temperatures and levels of power reserve, exposure to magnetic fields of 15,000 Gauss, pressure testing for water resistance, and confirmation of length of overall power reserve. These tests are all done on a complete and finished watch, which is the biggest differentiator between METAS Master Chronometer certification and COSC certification, which is far more prevalent in the watch industry. COSC certification is not without merit, however its testing process takes place on uncased watch movements, and is not as rigorous and demanding as the METAS process.
Master Chronometer certification is still not the most mainstream of testing certifications, but TUDOR has been slowly and steadily expanding the number of references it produces that go through the testing process. As of Watches and Wonders 2025, 17 references from TUDOR are offered with this certification, including the new Pelagos Ultra, the 43mm Black Bay 68, the Black Bay 58 GMT, and several others. The brand adds that this number will only increase — in the future, all Tudor watches will be Master Chronometer-certified. With this Master Chronometer seal of approval, there’s an added trust in the robustness of these watches, and further reassurance that they can stand the test of time, no matter where the adventure of life will take you.
Circling back to those horological discussions we spoke of initially, TUDOR already carries the aura about it as a brand that delivers as much to those wanting neo-vintage charm and historical pedigree as it does to those wanting modern-day tools to survive the roughest conditions imaginable. While not the only brand capable of satisfying some of these criteria, being able to do all of the above at a value-focused price point is just what TUDOR does best. Whether for one’s own collection or for a loved one, you can’t really go wrong.
Learn more about TUDOR Watches here.
