We’ve discussed on several occasions the fact that small watches are having a moment, but it’s worth noting that nobody dominates the trend quite like Cartier. Several classic and compact references have been spotted on famous wrists around the globe, whether on the street, in the stands, or on red carpets, and despite their understated proportions, these watches always make a bold statement. Today we’re diving into one of our favourite models — the Santos de Cartier Small Model — to highlight what’s behind its ever-lasting charm.
A Legacy Like No Other
To understand any Cartier Santos, one must first understand its history. Though the model has seen slight design evolution over the years, the Santos was originally designed in 1904 for his friend, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. This original watch went down in history as the first modern wristwatch.
Prior to this, there had been bespoke wristwatches crafted for women, however the early aviators of the era had been left to rely on pocket watches. This was an impractical (and arguably dangerous) state of affairs, as early planes required inputs from both hands, and letting go of the controls to check the time put pilots at even more risk than they were already facing by trying to take humanity to the skies. The arrival of the Santos-Dumont wristwatch, and its connection to early aviation fuelled the cultural shift that led to men starting to wear wristwatches, changing the game forever. One could speculate that without the ingenious work (and clever marketing) of Louis Cartier so many years ago, the timepiece industry could have been a much different scene today.
Brilliance in Details
In every available size, the design of the Santos de Cartier echoes its predecessors with a purity that both timepiece and design aficionados can’t help but admire. The Small Model remains incredibly close in proportions to the very first Santos, measuring a compact 27mm by 34.5mm, and only 7.5mm thick (compared to the 25mm x 35mm dimensions of the originally retailed model). Its square case design retains its beloved screwed-down bezel plate and gem-set crown. Its dial indices are always Roman Numerals rather than Arabic, and its railroad-style minute track creates a sort of frame within frame dial layout that assists with overall legibility.
There is one subtle detail, one final finishing touch, that’s a personal favourite on the Santos that casual onlookers will often miss: The secret signature. A tactic originally deployed as a means of thwarting early counterfeiting, Cartier writes its name into one of the numerals on its dials in remarkably fine print. With modern manufacturing techniques have advanced to a point where this is no longer a fraud deterrent, the subtle feature is still a charming little nod to the brand’s history.
Forever Improving
For this latest rendition of the Santos de Cartier Small Model, a quick-change bracelet system has been integrated (much like what was made available on its larger siblings a few years prior) that allows owners to quickly and seamlessly alternate between the metal bracelet and available leather straps without the use of tools. Though we love the look of these undersized references on bracelet, this added versatility is a great perk.
In an industry that tends to move in cycles and follows trends, we must raise a glass to the icon that is the Santos de Cartier. There’s no reinventing or editing a classic design such as this; the Santos encapsulates the essence of the company’s history, and remains an elegant and perpetually coveted timepiece that shall never fall out of favour. That timelessness is core to its appeal. The Santos fits in with current tailoring and streetwear tends, and will undoubtedly continue to fit in with the ebbs and flows of fashion in the decades to come — this is exactly what keeps the Santos de Cartier in our hearts at SHARP HQ.
Learn more about the Santos de Cartier collection here.
