Earlier this year, amidst all the buzz that surrounds Watches & Wonders — the watch industry’s largest tradeshow — TUDOR did what it does best, simultaneously surprising and impressing media and collectors alike with the latest addition to its professional diver line. The all-new Pelagos Ultra takes thoughtful steps forward in terms of technical capabilities, staying uniquely focused on the needs of pro divers without sacrificing its appeal to those looking for a robust watch they can wear daily. This winning formula is one we’ve come to expect from TUDOR, and it’s precisely why the brand is so consistently recommended — by SHARP and others — to those who are newer to the watch collecting space.
From the specifications side of things, the new watch pulls no punches. In contrast to the “standard” 42mm Pelagos models, the Ultra doubles its water resistance to 1,000 metres, but only increases its overall case dimensions by 1mm in diameter, and 0.2mm in thickness, bumping the latter up to 14.5mm. This level of improvement without a significant bulking of materials is impressive to say the least, as well as a testament to Tudor’s design and engineering capabilities. It’s a far cry from the norm, as so often we see watches gain significant dimension and heft when a depth rating increase like this is attempted. Regardless of your level of diving prowess, and whether or not the watch will ever explore significant diving depths, the strength and security that comes with this increased specification is certainly welcomed.
One of the strongest arguments to be made for the Pelagos Ultra, mind you, is when you compare it to other over-spec dive watches in the market. Referring back to those dimensions I noted earlier, its diameter and thickness are no bigger than a good number of 500-600m rated dive watches out there, and it’s much more reasonably sized than the few other luxury deep-divers in the market. It’s also much more modestly priced than anything you could tangibly argue is its competitor, retailing at $7,790 in Canada. Can you find a less expensive dive watch with a 1,000m dive rating? Sure, but not one that’s built to the same standard of quality, nor one that matches these comfortable proportions.
The ongoing use of titanium for the Pelagos line ticks yet another box in favour of the Ultra. The robust yet lightweight material plays a clutch role in the collection’s appeal, especially given that it’s still a material we don’t see a ton of in the luxury dive watch space. Where most brands will slip in the occasional special edition in titanium, the launch of the Pelagos in 2012 marked the brand’s first use of the material, and nearly every Pelagos reference to date has used titanium as its case material — the only exception here being the Pelagos FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing editions, which feature cases made from carbon composite, titanium, and stainless steel.
Completing the case for the Pelagos Ultra — speaking figuratively rather than literally — comes down to the two words printed on the dial below its nameplate: Master Chronometer. We’ve spoken previously about TUDOR’s ongoing push for accuracy benchmarks, and this Master Chronometer notation on the dial means the Pelagos Ultra is yet another TUDOR model that will receive METAS Master Chronometer testing and certification. With this comes an accuracy benchmark of 0 to +5 seconds per day, tested magnetic field resistance of 15,000 gauss, and the ability to pass a series of other additional tests that go above and beyond industry standards.
It’s become so common to see watch brands lauded for their one-off technical accomplishments in watches with astronomical price points, watching TUDOR’s consistent movement on the side of technical refinement and value is a steady breath of fresh air. Sure, wild levels of “how on earth did they do that” is fun, but for those of us without the astronomical bank accounts, watching a brand continually strive for excellence within the realm of practicality and value is something we’ll always be happy to see.
Learn more about the TUDOR Pelagos Ultra here.
All imagery courtesy of TUDOR Watches.
