What do Timothée Chalamet, Muhammad Ali, Andy Warhol, Princess Diana, and Jay-Z all have in common? Aside from making for a first-rate dinner party fantasy draft, they’ve all been known as fans of Cartier watches. With some of the most iconic designs of the 20th century in its catalogue and a fan club including many of the most stylish people of the last 100 years, Cartier sits comfortably among the world’s most important watch brands. As every serious Cartier enthusiast will tell you, however, the fabled Parisian maison isn’t a watch brand, it’s a jeweller that also happens to make watches. The fact that those watches are some of the most covetable on the planet only serves to underscore just how powerful Cartier’s influence is. For anyone interested in delving into the Cartier watch universe, these are the essential designs to know.
Tank Louis Cartier
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A front-runner for the most important watch design in history, the Tank’s beauty is in its geometric simplicity. Created in 1917, the Tank’s signature shape has proven as versatile as it is timeless, with dozens of variations produced over the last century, from the original Tank Normale to quirkier riffs including the Tank Chinoise and parallelogram-shaped Tank Asymétrique. ($19,900)
Cartier Ballon Bleu
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A study in concentric circles, this 21st-century creation provides a counterpoint to the squared geometries of the Tank, Santos, and Panthère. The inspiration for this watch, a floating balloon, is evident in both the case and the winding crown topped with a rounded sapphire (a.k.a. a cabochon). ($9,150)
Panthère de Cartier
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The panther has appeared on countless jewellery designs before the launch of this watch line in 1983. Worn by the likes of Keith Richards, Pierce Brosnan, and Charlie Sheen in Wall Street, its rounded case shape and sleek five-link bracelet give it a distinctly muscular, sinuous look. ($8,150)
Santos de Cartier
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In 1904, Louis Cartier designed a watch for pioneering aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont to wear while flying his experimental planes. Beyond its unique square design, the Cartier Santos had the distinction of being the first pilot’s watch. The Santos retains its original look, as does the Santos-Dumont, a dressier sub-collection with interchangeable straps. ($45,500)
Pasha de Cartier
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The Pasha is said to be based on a commission by the Pasha of Marrakesh in the 1930s for a water-resistent gold watch that could keep up with his active lifestyle. The result was an oversized watch with a crown cover and a metal grid over the crystal. These elements are present in the modern Pasha, alongside new flourishes such as skeletonized movements and diamond-set dials. ($78,500)
PHOTOS COURTESY OF CARTIER.
