What to say about Nick Wooster that hasn’t already been said? The beloved menswear maven has spent his entire career in fashion, whether consulting, buying for, or designing for a plethora of fashion and retail houses; to name Bergdorf Goodman and Thom Browne merely scratches the surface. The thing with Wooster is that the work is only a piece of the puzzle. His personal style is always one to watch. The silhouettes are always changing, the vibes ping-ponging through colours, patterns, cuts, and moods, but at the end of the day you always know it’s Nick when you see him.
We’ve had an ongoing conversation for years about talking fashion with SHARP, so when Wooster finally landed in Toronto ahead of the opening of Modern Ambition’s Yorkville store, we carved out a time for a discussion on the current state of fashion at both a global and local scale.
How did you end up connecting with Modern Ambition?
It all came about because of Shayne (Stephens). He’s been consulting with Modern Ambition and has been trying to get me to come to Toronto for the longest time. It’s been over 10 years, and I’m happy that this was the occasion to finally make it happen.
Is there something in particular about Modern Ambition that stands out to you?
I think what’s interesting is that there’s a huge void between really inexpensive menswear and very expensive menswear. There’s this nice gap in the middle, and I think Modern Ambition is doing a really commendable job of offering something interesting, at a good price point, with beautiful quality.
What does the Canadian fashion scene look like to you, and what stands out about it, if anything?
You know, it’s really hard to say that there’s a distinctly Canadian style. I mean, you’re famous for the Canadian tuxedo, I guess, which I don’t think is a bad thing.
I think that, because of the phone, everyone around the world pretty much looks the same. That can be both good and bad. It’s unfortunate that things don’t seem as interesting when you travel, but at the same time, there are always differences.
If anything, I’d say that men here aren’t as afraid to experiment as they are in the U.S., but that’s based on a very limited sample.
Along those same lines, do you think finding your own individuality through fashion is harder now because of globalization and social connectivity? Or do you think it’s easier?
I would think it’s easier, but sometimes, when you’re presented with too much information, it’s hard to know what feedback to accept and what to reject.
Overall, though, I do think men are generally freer, and there are so many more options available that I have to believe it’s a good thing for the cause. That said, I hear from people every day who feel confused.
If I can help, or if Modern Ambition can help in some small way, that’s cool.
Have you noticed any particular trends in menswear this year? Is there anything you’re especially excited about?
I’ve always hated the word trends because I feel like it’s a loaded term. It’s as though you’re building in the obsolescence of it all.
That said, I do think colour has become super important. The changing silhouettes of trousers — from skinny to big and oversized, and now back to skinny — are always a good way to mix things up. Someone who’s really into wide trousers might become interested in slim fits again, while someone who only wears slim trousers might look at wide trousers as they’re on their way out and think, “Oh, wow, that could be cool for me.”
The same goes for shoe profiles. I think the move towards lower-profile shoes has encouraged people, myself included, to try different kinds of footwear.
In general, I think colour has also come out of the closet, which is probably an interesting development. There’s also a renewed interest in beautiful materials, and that’s always a good trend as far as I’m concerned.
Are there any favourite new designers you’re keeping tabs on?
My idea of a new designer is probably different from that of most people. There are people who know everything about the newest and youngest designers, and I’m not that person.
I like to let a season or two pass, and see how things settle. There’s a designer named Christopher, I think his name is Christopher Lundman, who was at Acne, I believe, and who has a brand called Salon C. Lundman.
It’s really, really beautiful. It’s in the vein of Lemaire or The Row: seemingly very simple, but when you look under the hood, it’s beautifully constructed. The cuts and proportions are perhaps tweaked just a little, but the overall result is classic and beautiful.
Do you have any standout memories from fashion week so far this year? Not necessarily related to a particular collection, but more on a personal level or in terms of the overall experience?
This year, we had the fall season in January, and that season is always great for me because it’s all about fall clothes. People are excited, there are lots of layers, and there’s plenty to see. The weather is also agreeable, even when it’s cold.
Summer, on the other hand, was another story. June was probably the most hellish experience of my life in Paris. It started in Florence, which was terrible, although it’s usually really hot there anyway. But in Paris, it was so beastly hot that I really had to question whether I could keep doing this. That was my main takeaway from Paris.
Of course, there were interesting things to see. The spring season always has a slightly different kind of excitement, but I think the heat clouded everyone’s ability to see clearly. It also made me feel really bad for some of the models, especially at the Rick Owens show.
I remember watching them and thinking, “Oh, the heavy leather…” But the payoff was that they got to walk under the water as they reached the final stretch of the show.
The audience was essentially divided into thirds, and I was in the section that stayed in the shade the entire time. So my experience at Rick Owens was fantastic. I even got some water splashed on me, which felt like going to a water park as a kid. It was great for me!
What keeps you motivated or inspired?
You know, the crazy thing is that I never get tired of clothes. I’ve been doing this for a long time, and I still haven’t gotten tired of them.
As long as I need to keep wearing clothes, and as long as I’m wearing clothes, I’m always going to be interested.
How much influence do you think queer culture is having on fashion right now? Has that influence changed over the years?
Oh my God, I think it’s having a profound effect on culture in general. From Heated Rivalry to the stars in it, I just think the sensibility of most things today is gayer than it’s ever been, and I think that’s a good thing.
