Watch Trend Spotting: The Power of Black and Gold

Justin Mastine-Frost October 17, 2023

Publications big and small like to talk trends in the watch world; whether it’s green is the new blue, case sizes are getting smaller, or will Patek and Rolex secondary market prices drop?, the hot takes are nothing new. That said, it’s been years since we first starting this combo making the rounds, and lately it feels like every major luxury watch brand (and even some more niche ones) have tapped it to expand their collections.

We’re talking black and gold watches here, which can take on a variety of forms. Whether it’s a champagne dial with a black bezel, a black dial in a full-gold watch, or a black (DLC, carbon, etc) case complemented by gold indices and hands, black and gold is a power combo. It can make a bold statement, or simply skirt under the radar until that gold catches a glimmer of light — from there there’s no hiding its presence. We’ve had eyes on several watches that hit this trend over the years, so this list will take a bit of a journey back and forth between new novelties and references that have been in the market for a number of years.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G

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An easy favourite for this list is Tudor’s sturdy diver chronograph, in part due to a sneaky historical nod. Fairly, Tudor won’t use the nomenclature themselves, but generally speaking this combination of gold subdials and accents over a black dial and bezel is referred to as a John Player Special. This goes back to the John Player Special liveries that appeared on Lotus F1 cars (and team vehicles) in the ’60s and ’70s. Fun fact: Mario Andretti’s World Championship win in 1978 was at the wheel of one such car. Applying this treatment to the Black Bay chronograph proved to be a perfect fit, as the watch itself has its fair share of vintage-themed design cues.

Breitling Super Chronomat B01

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Here’s the thing, the further you go down the black and gold rabbit hole, the more you realize there is no wrong answer: it always works. Case in point, Breitling’s Super Chronomat B01. Even the faintest of gold accents and you’ve got a watch that just sings. Adding a rugged case design and an in-house manufactured B01 chronograph caliber to the mix doesn’t hurt either.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic

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Leading with this new carbon case and bracelet Bulgari is a no brainer, not just because of how fitting this example is, but rather due to how far ahead of the curve the brand has been in its black and gold offerings. I can safely recall black and gold watches from the first time I came across the Octo Finissimo, as well as references of the Roma and Bvlgari Bvlgari. Back to the watch at hand, we’re still looking at incredibly slim 6.9mm case profile and 40mm diameter. There’s one additional shift that is but isn’t aesthetic: its movement is now fitted with gold bridges and a gold-plated platinum microrotor.

Omega Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon Black Ceramic

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Part of the fun of this aesthetic trend is that it properly transcends categories. Dress watches, tool watches, divers, chronographs — it really doesn’t matter, nor does it seem out of place on either end of the spectrum. This Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon is a great example of how gold can act as an enhancer of legibility, allowing its wearer to really focus in on the time and chronograph indications without any distractions on the dial.

Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic

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Though perhaps not quite as legible as the Omega above, there’s a lot going on with this ceramic Captain Cook from Rado that earns it a place in this list. The High-Tech Ceramic case and bracelet start things off, but its the inclusion of gold indices in its ceramic bezel, as well as its raised gold hour markers on the dial, filled with black Super LumiNova. From there, it’s the smoke-tinted sapphire crystal dial that steals the show, allowing its wearer a clean glimpse at its inner workings. If you’ve yet to try on a full ceramic watch, this would be a great place to start.

TAG Heuer Carrera Wes Lang X Bamford Limited Edition

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A recent limited collab between TAG Heuer and the beloved mister Bamford, this time bringing in the artist Wes Lang for good measure. Its yellow gold case is fitted with the Caliber Heuer 02 automatic chronograph movement, delivering a power reserve of 80 hours. Also of note, it’s one of fewer and fewer chronographs on the market that offers hour and minute chronograph timing with only two subdials (much more common is a three register layout, with the third subdial displaying running seconds).

Rolex GMT-Master II

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No list is complete without a proper legend, so here we are. The Rolex GMT-Master II needs no introduction; the brand’s ultimate travel watch remains one of several watches from the brand that are still difficult to acquire. Though steel sports watches from Rolex (and others) are still all the rage, a gold case and bracelet is the real power move. We’ve already said black and gold makes a statement, but when it’s a solid gold Rolex, that statement ratchets up a few extra levels.

Hublot Square Bang Unico King Gold Ceramic

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Of our selects, this new Hublot is one that balances the colour combination a bit more evenly than its counterparts. Though you can’t see it from this angle, the case of the Square Bang is a multi-piece construction; its bezel and mid-case is made of black brushed ceramic, whereas the top and bottom elements — the bread to its “sandwich” design, if you will — are made of Hublot’s proprietary King Gold alloy. Wedge the Unico automatic chronograph in the middle, and you’ve got quite the charming timepiece in front of you.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked

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Back to the heavy hitters we go, as even legends like Audemars Piguet have taken note of the stunning contrast created by pairing gold with their black ceramic Royal Oak case and bracelet. A Royal Oak perpetual calendar of any sorts is the kind of watch that dreams are made of, but this specific reference is our favourite, hands down. Yes, it’s marked “price on request”, and getting your hands on this will be even harder than that GMT-Master II unless you’re a longstanding client of the brand.

Bulova Icon

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Bulova’s Icon line leans on modern industrial design, delivering watches that make a bold statement. With this variant of the icon leaning on yellow gold accents, you’re left with a slightly more chic interpretation of an otherwise rather rugged timepiece.

DOXA SUB 300 Beta Sharkhunter

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Last but not least, DOXA has arrived with a rather stealthy interpretation of the trend in their classic SUB 300 diver line. The matte finish of its dial, bezel, and case all make the gold accents pop, further amplifying the contrast for its time indication. Those needing pure utility are still best to opt for the DOXA’s classic orange dials, but for the street and daily wear this new reference is an absolute home run.