Hands-On With the 39mm New Longines Legend Diver
Watchmakers love nothing more than a challenge, and the quest to design the world’s best waterproof watch was one of the defining horological pursuits of the mid-20th century. By the 1950s, thanks to advances in scuba technology and underwater photography, the popularity of undersea exploration was reaching new heights (or, more accurately, depths), and a new breed of underwater watches was needed to meet the burgeoning demand. Among the most innovative of these was the Longines Diver, a 1959 release that has become one of the most popular pieces in the modern Longines catalogue following its 2007 relaunch as the Longines Legend Diver. In November, Longines updated the Legend Diver with a few subtle aesthetic upgrades and — crucially for many fans of vintage watches — a new 39 mm case.
Longines Legend Diver
Longines Legend Diver
Longines Legend Diver
Longines Legend Diver
Among its long history of firsts in watchmaking is Longines’ 1937 release of the world’s first chronograph with water-resistant push-pieces, followed by the brand’s first underwater watch in 1958. The following year in 1959, Longines released a watch specifically designed for underwater exploration and rated water-resistant up to 120 m: the Longines Diver. Among the most distinctive features of the Longines Diver was its Super-Compressor case with dual locking crowns. Designed to improve on the standard rotating bezel (which can be knocked out of position mid-dive) the Super-Compressor featured an internal 60-minute bezel adjustable by the watch’s second crown.
The newest Legend Diver has a few key features that are sure to appeal to fans of vintage dive watches. The dial, available in black or navy blue, remains as pleasantly retro as the previous model, with the subtle addition of a new detail on the seconds hand and the removal of the date window — another nod to the original.
Longines Legend Diver
Longines Legend Diver
Longines Legend Diver
A quintessential diver’s tool, it’s now rated for 300 m water resistance, and certified as a Divers’ Watch by ISO (the International Organization for Standardization). Also included is the Longines L888.6 calibre, one of the brand’s latest movements, which is equipped with a silicon balance-spring that offers improved magnetic resistance, and a power reserve of up to 72 hours. The watch is also chronometer-certified by COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres — the independent Swiss body that governs such things), which involves 15 consecutive, uninterrupted days of testing in various positions and temperatures to guarantee its precision.
Like previous Legend Diver models, in addition to a stainless steel case featuring alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces, the case back is stamped with the Legend Diver’s emblem of a spearfishing diver. The new models are available with a brown leather strap, a blue NATO strap or a new stainless steel bracelet with a double-safety folding clasp. The latter, a “beads of rice” style popular among sports watches in the mid-20th century, adds yet another element to the watch’s authentic vintage appeal, and in addition to its competitive price of $4,100 (with bracelet) it upholds the Legend Diver’s reputation as one of the best modern-vintage divers on the market.
