Editor’s Picks: Finding the Perfect Watch From Longines
When they’re not writing about watches, Sharp’s resident watch editors — like all watch fanatics — enjoy nothing more than assembling fantasy watch drafts of their favourite pieces. With an unlimited budget and the entire Longines catalogue at their disposal, here’s what they’d buy first.
Jeremy Freed, Watch Editor: La Grande Classique de Longines
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There’s more hype than ever around Longines these days, and it’s great to see the brand finally getting the recognition it deserves. The watch I chose, however, is probably the least-hyped in Longines’ massive collection. Here’s why.
I love seeing brands explore new territory, but I’m also a big fan of brands that do one thing and do it really well. Longines has upped its game in terms of sports watches in recent years (for more on that, check out Justin’s pick) but they also do classic, conservative dress watches better than pretty much anyone else in the sub-$5,000 range, and that’s where I’d put my money any day of the week.
La Grande Classique de Longines is the type of watch that was ubiquitous in the 1930s and 1940s, and this particular model has been a part of the Longines catalogue since the early 1990s. It’s a time-only watch with unique (and extremely elegant) T-shaped lugs, and is available in more than 80 different combinations of dial colours, metals and straps, with case sizes ranging from a dainty 24 mm to a robust 38 mm.
The thing I appreciate most about this watch is the overall restraint of its design. I’m not a fan of big, ostentatious watches, and this one proves you don’t need a big case or a maximalist design to make an impact. Likewise, few things in my opinion ruin a great dial faster than a date window, so I appreciate that Longines has kept the Grande Classique’s dial date-free. It’s also one of the very few modern watches that doesn’t have a seconds hand, which, along with the ultra-slim Roman numerals and stick hands, lends it an even more refined look.
Longines Grande Classique
Longines Grande Classique
In keeping with its elegant vibe and classical proportions, my pick would be the steel 36 mm version with a white dial and a steel bracelet. As an homage to early 20th-century dress watches, which were much smaller than what most men consider an acceptable size today, this version of the Grande Classique is perfectly suited to a smaller case size (and I think it’d look even better in a 34mm).
La Grande Classique is available with two movements, a quartz and a Swiss-made automatic with 45 hours of power reserve. The latter is a tried-and-true workhorse calibre, but in keeping with its dressy context it has a nice degree of finishing in the form of a rotor engraved with cotes de Geneve and contrasting brass-toned components visible through the sapphire case back.
In keeping with its old-school inspirations, I’d be happy to see the watch with a hand-winding movement, but that’s a very minor (and completely subjective) quibble. As it is, La Grande Classique de Longines is a perfect pick for anyone looking to explore smaller watches, or anyone on the hunt for an unimpeachable classic to wear for dressier occasions. ($2,400)
Justin Mastine-Frost, Director of Digital Content: Legend Diver 39mm
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Unlike the esteemed Mr. Freed, I have to land on one if the brand’s new releases that has gotten plenty of airtime already; we’ve covered it on more than one occasion, and I was fortunate enough to have one in on loan for a closer look a few months ago. The 39mm Legend Diver was first previewed in the spring of 2023, and immediately stuck in the back of my mind as the perfect interpretation of the beloved reference.
I’ll happily admit that a big part of my obsession with the new diver is a very personal factor. The Legend Diver has been around for ages now, but it’s long been one of those watches that was perpetually too big or too small. The 42mm reference, with its long and rather flat lugs, always perched too long across the top of my wrist. The later arrival of a 36mm was a step in the right direction, but the collection mostly became the land of watches both too big and too small for those with a mid-sized wrist.
Looking at it more closely, a lot has changed with this latest Legend Diver reference. Its crowns, its case profile, and its bezel have all seen some share of modification. Even its caseback engraving feels deeper and more intentional. Its navy NATO-style strap is not a new addition, though it is something recent for the brand as a whole. It’s also one of the more comfortable nato straps out there, using fabric keepers rather than the traditional metal ones.
Another details that’s working well for this reference is the removal of the date window previously seen on other Legend Diver references. Date windows are always polarizing, and most surveys on the data tend to land less than 10% apart. Having the dial completely clear of obstruction works well for this model, though to be fair, its placement on the 42mm and 36mm reference isn’t too intrusive.
Lastly, a good wristwatch is only as good as the reliability and function of its inner workings. Powered by yet another Longines proprietary caliber — a modified ETA, built for Longines by its corporate sibling — the Legend Diver boasts a 72h power reserve, using a silicon balance spring to help its resistance to magnetism (and in turn, overall accuracy). These new references start at $3,900 on this style of strap, and between the fit, finish, and overall feel, it’s an easy pick for me as “the one to buy”. The only remaining question is whether it fits you as well as it fits me.
