These Are The Watch Trends That Will Define 2024

Jeremy Freed April 16, 2024

Watches & Wonders Geneva has become the single most definitive event in the watch industry calendar, with more than 50 of the world’s top brands, from global juggernauts to scrappy bringing their A-game. The hundreds of novelties (the watch industry term for new releases) included historic grand complications, gemstone-encrusted showstoppers, elegant time-only pieces, and pretty much everything in between, and after three jam-packed days on the convention floor, we’re ready to call out the biggest trends of the year.

Titanium Goes High-End

This space-age alloy has been used in watches since the 1970s, but this year saw brands taking it to new heights as the material of choice for some of their most pioneering designs. Perhaps the most noteworthy of these is TAG Heuer’s Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph, which boasted the brand’s first-ever all-titanium movement. Created in partnership with famed movement specialist Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, and and weighing just 85 grams in total, this piece is one of TAG Heuer’s most ambitious creations of recent years.

Vacheron Constantin and Chopard also put titanium in a new context with elite versions of some of their most-loved models in titanium cases. The new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon contrasts a case, bracelet, crown, and bezel in grade 5 titanium with the refinement of the brand’s ultra-thin self-winding Calibre 2160 tourbillon movement. At Chopard, meanwhile, an ultra-thin version of the brand’s signature sports watch, the Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT, boasts a subtly openworked dial within a 41 mm titanium case. Roger Dubuis also dipped into ultralight territory with the new Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium, a surprisingly subdued take on the brand’s signature complication.

Yellow Gold Shines Again

Yellow gold never really goes out of style, but some years it feels more relevant than others. This is definitely one of those years, starting with Piaget’s early 2024 reveal of the Polo 79, a stunning re-edition of one of the brand’s most celebrated 1970s designs. Yellow gold was a major presence at Watches & Wonders, too, particularly at the Rolex and Tudor booths.

Among the most-photographed watches at the show was the newest version of the Rolex Deepsea, which enhances the already-significant presence of the brand’s 3,900-metre dive watch with a case made of 18k yellow gold and a standout blue bezel and dial. Conversely, among the least-photographed watches was the new Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Le Mans” in yellow gold, and off-catalog release that replaces the outgoing platinum model. This piece, however, is so limited in production that Rolex declined to announce it officially. Tudor also presented a full-gold model (its first-ever) in the new Black Bay 58 18k, which offers a subtler take on yellow gold thanks to a satin finish.

Unisex Watches

The culture of watches has long centred on men, but the industry’s nascent emphasis on inclusivity was visible throughout Watches & Wonders, with many more novelties designed to appeal to all genders. The most colourful of the bunch by far comes from NOMOS Glashütte, the German watchmaker known for its modern, minimalist designs. In honour of the 175th anniversary of watchmaking in Glashütte, NOMOS unveiled a limited-edition collection of its Tangente 38 date, with no less than 31 new versions (one for each day of the month) in a wide array of colour combinations, each limited to 175 pieces.

Alpina’s integrated bracelet sports watch, the Alpiner Extreme, also received a unisex update in the form of a trio of new 35mm models with dials in pink, beige, and navy blue. Cartier, which has an even longer history of non-binary gendered watches, joined the growing ranks of watch brands who are dispensing with gendered categories altogether, offering new versions of the Santos Dumont, Panthere, and Tortue that are sized to flatter any wrist.