For Dior FW25, Kim Jones Does Simple Luxury Blindfolded

For much of his time at Dior, Kim Jones has brought a maximalist touch to the Parisian Maison’s luxury wares. Colours have often been bright, logos have been reworked and displayed prominently, various artists have been tapped to create graphics that adorned meticulously-made sweaters, ornate embellishments were affixed to jackets, trousers, hats and bags. Even the inspirations Jones cited — and his manner of working with a bevy of collaborators — felt maximalist.

The Dior Fall-Winter 2025 collection, shown at École Militaire in Paris on Friday, was, instead, a study in ultra-refined and simple luxury, replete with pieces that, while less ornate than some of his previous creations, were just as opulent.

Last January, Jones’ debuted the first pieces of menswear couture as part of the Fall-Winter 2024 collection. More were shown in June, for Spring-Summer 2025. This season, the couture pieces were interspersed with traditional ready-to-wear garments, providing a roadmap for how one might wear them. A testament to the intricacies of Jones’ ready-to-wear, it was hard to spot which pieces were part of the couture lineup. It also spoke to the refinement of the collection as a whole, which felt tightly edited on both a macro and micro level. No look felt like it was one too many, nor did any thread seem superfluous. The focus, Jones said in his show notes, was on lines and shapes, drawing inspiration from Christian Dior’s “Ligne H.” As such, there were no eye-catching graphics, nor was there much in the way of pops of colour, with a muted palette composed largely of black, white and muted pinks, applied to the “noblest fabrics”: silks and satins. Bows — on shoes, coats and more, were the dominant motif — and brought a touch of femininity.

Dior Men’s Fall-Winter 2025

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These were clothes to be admired from afar — how the lightness of the silk allowed it to billow behind a model or how the archetypal bomber was recreated as a popover, with folded detailing on the chest — but to be appreciated for their savoir-faire from close, something a fashion show does not allow for.

While this collection may be remembered for different reasons in the future, what was remarkable immediately, were the 8 models who paraded down not one, but two perilous flight of stairs and a vast show space wearing what were ostensibly bow caps, but, in practice, were more akin to blindfolds. Practical? Not at all. Beautiful? Incredibly.

It was a touch of showmanship from a designer who has a flair for it, but it was the only touch. The space itself was bare, save for the two sets of stairs. The message, if there was one, was that this was about the clothes. It was about the cut and the way they drape, about the subtleties of the colours and the feel of the fabrics.

Dior Men’s Fall-Winter 2025

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Joe Alwyn.

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Kate Moss.

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Kieran Culkin.

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Robert Pattinson.

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Photo by Brett Lloyd.

In his notes, there was mention of shape-shifting — a coat that turns into a skirt, one era leading to another. Over the years, Jones has proven to be the ultimate shape-shifter. Under his watch, Dior has churned out both streetwear and couture, coveted sneaker drops and rare handbags, collaborations with artists both über-popular and relatively unknown. And on Friday, he reminded us of the most important one: that, at Dior, he can do simple luxury beautifully, even blindfolded.

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