For five decades, the late Giorgio Armani maintained the title of fashion’s master tailor and lived a life that looked equal parts lavish and refined. As a true maestro of his craft, the Piacenza-born designer left behind a legacy that will likely never be seen again — and most certainly will continue to be referenced for years to come.
Having long admired his costume work in Casino, Goodfellas, and The Untouchables, I only recently learned that the film American Gigolo ignited his career. Directed by Paul Schrader, I caught the film earlier this year when I needed a jolt of inspiration. Played by Richard Gere, Julian Kay’s wardrobe captured the Armani man I’d come to idolize — elegant, tailored, with a subtle confidence that is never overly buttoned-up.
My favourite sequence (that I’ve watched numerous times now) is when Kay is going through the various drawers in his closet, revealing his impeccable Armani shirting and ties, all the while singing along to Smokey Robinson and the Miracles’ “The Love I Saw In You Was Just A Mirage.” It reminded me that one should always have a healthy level of enthusiasm when getting dressed.
Beyond film, Armani’s enduring influence on menswear is more relevant than ever, with fan accounts such as @myarmaniarchive and vintage collectors like Elliot Duprey drawing big followings with their curated tributes to the fashion designer.
Elsewhere, his designs unsurprisingly continue to shape the next generation of designers advocating for more relaxed tailoring, with this year’s LVMH Prize winner, Soshiotsuki, citing Armani as a key inspiration in the brand’s approach to menswear.
In Martin Scorsese’s short documentary Made in Milan, Armani remarks, “I love the past, but I try not to be its victim.” This sentiment captures what ultimately made him such a desirable designer for more than 50 years. His designs were never rooted in spectacle or novelty — he evolved with the times and remained inherently timeless.
PHOTO BY TED BELTON.
