Three-quarters of a century after it was introduced, the essential design of the diver’s watch, from its high-contrast dial to its toothy rotating bezel, is firmly established. Despite this, brands at every level continue to tinker with the formula, adding new materials and colours while pushing water-resistance and accuracy into new territory. The results of this collective obsession are an incredible diversity of models, from $100 quartz divers with resin cases to five-figure monsters designed to function at the bottom of the ocean. For most people, however, the ideal diver’s watch is something in between: a daily driver with a robust steel case, classic mid-century design cues, and a reliable modern movement. For those folks, the new Longines HydroConquest offers an irresistible trifecta of looks, specs, and value.
Introduced in 2007, the HydroConquest is the product of decades of pioneering dive-watch design, a legacy that includes legends like the Skin Diver, Super Compressor and Ultra-Chron. Ahead of its 20th birthday, Longines has doubled down on these strengths to produce what can, without exaggeration, be called the best HydroConquest yet. Available in both 39mm and 42mm sizes, with four lacquered-dial options, five ceramic bezel colours, and two styles of steel bracelet, the new HydroConquest combines easy wearability with enough aesthetic options to keep everyone happy.
Whether in classic black-on-black with a three-link bracelet or the more adventurous frosted blue sunray dial with a mesh bracelet, the HydroConquest’s archetypal dive-watch looks are backed by the kind of specs usually found on watches that cost multiples more. Water-resistant to 300m — the standard for luxury dive-watches — its stainless-steel case houses a Swiss-made, self-winding mechanical movement featuring a silicon balance spring and up to a 72-hour power reserve, a combination that delivers top-notch accuracy, durability and magnetic resistance. Features like a micro-adjustable steel bracelet and a Super-LumiNova bezel capsule add functionality and value to the HydroConquest.
Given its handsome looks and impressive specs, the new HydroConquest could easily command $5,000 or more — and if it were any other brand, it likely would—but Longines’ remit of offering the most watch for the least money means it will set you back as little as $2,900 (for the three-link bracelet; the mesh variant is priced at $3,100). More importantly, though, the new HydroConquest gives dive-watch enthusiasts exactly what they want: a stylish and dependable timepiece that will look good with everything from a sport coat to swim trunks. That is what has made the classic diver’s watch a go-to for so many years and makes the new HydroConquest a prime contender for any wrist.
