Being one of the OGs of fine tailoring, Zegna is usually a pretty good indicator of the state of the suit. Amid the mass, Silicon Valley-influenced, hoodies-and-sneakers-ification of menswear, is there still a place for the old jacket and tie? Well, as we learned at the venerated Milanese brand’s Summer 2019 show earlier this season, the answer is… sorta?
Staged on massive mirrored catwalk stretching out across the vast lake in front of the Oscar Niemeyer building (which houses publisher Mondadori’s HQ), the show looked like it was suspended in mid-air, with sunset reflecting on every surface. Fittingly, the show’s theme was Weightlessness, and the collection itself had a feels-like-I’m-wearing-nothing aesthetic. Take away the collar and tie, and suddenly the suit carries an almost pyjama-esque flair, while still looking startlingly sophisticated.
Throughout the line, artistic director Alessandro Sartori has fused the performance of sports with the precious fabrications of couture tailoring, creating a relaxed and breezy silhouette. A fitted jacket is paired with joggers, anoraks are worn with high-waisted trousers, bombers are worn with slacks. Colours range from twilight-y pink to sky blue to mustard yellow.
What’s the future of suiting look like? If Zegna is any gauge, it looks pretty refreshing — like an icy gelato on a sweltering summer’s day.
