Art Meets Craft: Ten New Watches That Go Deep on Detail

Jeremy Freed May 22, 2024

Watches are human-centric creations. From the artisans who create their enamelled dials to the craftspeople who precisely brush and polish their cases, each of these stunning new models reveals the highest level of watchmaking craft in its details, and speaks to the skills of the people who brought them to life.

Pasha de Cartier

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From the sapphire cabochon on the winding crown to a dial engraved with precise concentric rings (a technique called guilloché), the design language of Cartier watchmaking has been refined over more than a century. The anthracite colour of this chronograph’s dial offers a clue to something more unusual, however: a layer of enamel applied through a rare craft known as flinqué. ($13,800)

Louis Vuitton Tambour Automatic

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The ideal watch is versatile enough to wear every day, but contains enough interesting details to give you something new to admire every time you glance at your wrist. That’s the idea behind the Tambour, with its stepped dial and array of brushed, polished, and engraved surfaces, each of which offers a unique texture and shine. ($37,500)

Glashütte Original PanoInverse

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In addition to its asymmetric dial layout, the PanoInverse further distinguishes itself by flipping its movement back-to-front, exposing rhodium-plated bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes), polished screws, and a duplex swan-neck fine adjustment system, all of which are crafted with Glashütte Original’s signature German precision. ($14,800)

Panerai Submersible Carbotech

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The case of this diver’s watch breaks from decades of tradition by using Carbotech, a modern carbon fibre–based composite, in place of tried-and-true stainless steel. This results in not only an improved lightness-to-strength ratio, but also an uneven matte black look that’s unique to each watch. ($22,400)

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph

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The black, horizontal striped, and sunray-brushed dial of TAG Heuer’s newest Aquaracer contrasts with its ice-blue seconds hand for a decidedly sporty look. Beneath the subtle shine of the dial’s surface, however, is another unique strength: TAG Heuer’s TH50-00 solar-powered movement. ($3,800)

Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF

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The piercing gaze of a soaring eagle is at the heart of Chopard’s modern sports watch, with a dial textured to mimic the look of the raptor’s all-seeing eye. This version’s Pitch Black dial, orange accents, and brushed titanium hint at the high-frequency (and incredibly precise) automatic movement ticking within. ($28,800 at Royal de Versailles)

Alpina Alpiner Extreme Chronograph Automatic

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Alpina’s mountain logo symbolizes the strength, durability, and pioneering spirit of its watches. This Swiss-made chronograph upholds those ideals in every aspect of its design, with subtle touches including a mountain-inspired triangle motif on its dial, seconds hand, and even on the heads of the functional bezel screws. ($4,455)

Grand Seiko SBGH343

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Grand Seiko’s latest homage to the natural world features a dial inspired by the new leaves that appear on cherry trees during late spring. Mimicking the dappled sunlight that filters down through the canopy, the organic texture of the dial contrasts elegantly with the hairline finishes and sharp creases of the Zaratsu-polished titanium case. ($9,900)

Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon

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This homage to NASA’s 1968 Apollo 8 mission comes alive in details such as a laser-ablated movement that mimics the texture of the moon, yellow accents on the dial and strap, and a tiny replica of the Saturn V rocket — crafted from grade-5 titanium — as the small seconds hand. ($19,400)

Rado True Round Automatic Open Heart

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The Rado calibre R734 movement visible through its precisely excised dial might be the star, but the subtle matte glow, surprising lightness, and unique feel of this Rado’s Plasma High-Tech Ceramic case and bracelet are just as worthy of admiration. ($3,300)