From Pop-Up to Mainstay: Sunny’s Chinese Turns Three
Three years ago, just as restaurants were beginning to find their footing again after long pandemic closures, Sunny’s Chinese opened its doors in Toronto’s Kensington Market, introducing bold regional Chinese cooking to the city in a way that felt both fresh and familiar. What started as a pop-up tucked behind sister restaurant Mimi Chinese (one that quickly went viral) soon evolved into one of the most sought-after reservations in the city.
On its third birthday, the room was packed with friends, family, and regulars, all squeezed in over crispy mala fried chicken sandwiches, marinated eggplant, and indulgent Hong Kong French toast. Drinks flowed just as freely, from crisp cocktails and premium sake to Sunny’s signature ritual, the Gunpowder Slap — a beer, a shot of baijiu, and a light cocktail to soften the blow. All in all, it was an energetic night that captured exactly what Sunny’s has become: a fixture of Toronto’s culinary scene.
“We wanted it to feel both brand new and like it had already been here for 30 years.”
David Schwartz on the philosophy behind Sunny’s.
For owner and Culinary and Creative Director David Schwartz, the milestone feels especially significant. “The construction process for this restaurant was still, to date, the hardest one I’ve ever had to do,” he recalls. “Whenever we hit these milestone moments, I remind myself of that. Three years in any other industry isn’t much, but in restaurants, it’s a lifetime.”
Schwartz, part of a restaurant group that owns Mimi Chinese along with Linny’s and Linny’s Luncheonette, says that the following created out of everything has been the payoff. “What’s the point in doing this if not for the community?” Schwartz says. “To have everyone celebrate it for one night — that feels really amazing.”
Left: Photo by Gabriel Li.
Right: Photo by Daniel Neuhaus.
The food has evolved just as much as the surrounding following. When Sunny’s launched, the menu was a tight edit of dishes inspired by several Chinese regions, but has evolved thanks to the team behind the line. “What excites me most is how much the menu has changed,” Schwartz explains. “I’ve stepped back and let the team do their thing. They’re so talented that I know they’ll make something better than if I forced my hand. Seeing the food evolve — sometimes subtly, sometimes in big ways—has been the most rewarding part.”
Sunny’s also had to live up to the history of its space. For years, the address was home to Cold Tea, a beloved bar with a cult following. Schwartz knew that taking it over came with high expectations. “This space was an institution in its own right,” he says. “My peers and I had spent a lot of time here before we took it over, and I knew people would say ‘bring back Cold Tea.’ We wanted it to feel both brand new and like it had already been here for 30 years.” Judging by the steady crowds, they’ve hit that balance.
So what’s next? “We want to make it to ten years at all of our restaurants,” Schwartz says. “For now, it’s about improving day by day — especially at Mimi’s and Sunny’s — understanding the difference between the two and honing in on what makes each one special.” If the past three years are any indication, Sunny’s isn’t slowing down from . Whether it’s a new dish from the kitchen, a night of revelry with friends, or just a quiet plate of dumplings at the bar, the restaurant has carved out its place in Toronto’s dining culture.
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