Suits, Sportswear and a Lobster: The Best of New York Men’s Fashion Week, Day 2
The second day of New York Men’s Fashion Week was packed with a slew of exciting runway shows, a welcome pop of colour and some serious cycling style. Sharp’s Fashion Editor Matthew Biehl was on the ground in NYC to get the full scoop.
1. Return to the Runway
American designer Joseph Abboud made a triumphant return to the runway, opening the second day of New York Men’s Fashion Week. The designer offered up a masterclass in suiting, sending down layered looks of military-inspired tailoring that put a focus on textured and patterned fabrics — Harris tweeds, washed velvets, cashmeres and wools were all accounted for — as well as small details, like surgeon cuff buttons extending up the sleeves to the elbows. To give the show an extra touch of authenticity and craftsmanship, Abboud collaborated with noted American makers Allen Edmonds and Albertus Swanepoel on the collection’s footwear and hats, respectively.
2. From the Sea to the City
Nautica has been quietly working to revitalize its brand, and those efforts are especially evident this season. With new men’s designer Steve McSween at the helm, the label feels infinitely fresher — its nautical vibe, focus on performance outerwear and penchant for bright pops are all still present, but in a slicker, slimmer package. And, in a digitally savvy-move, the brand not only live-streamed the collection, but also made select runway pieces available for purchase as soon as the last model stepped off the catwalk.
3. Cycle Style
Looking for a line that really takes the concept of athleisure to heart? EFM Menswear blends athletic staples, tailored pieces, technical fabrics and traditional textiles to great success. Sure, the dudes at Pitti Uomo look great cycling through Florence in suits, but EFM offers up a much more realistic — yet no less stylish — take on the ideal outfit for a bike ride in the city. Technical-minded layers that wouldn’t look out of place at the office? Can’t ask for much more than that.
4. A Pop of Colour
Although Luca Larenza‘s eponymous label is only in its second season, the upstart Italian designer is already producing covetable and self-assured collections. His presentation was literally a bright spot for the day — Larenza’s use of vibrant colours like electric yellow, kelly green and cobalt blue stood out for all the right reasons among the sea of neutrals that designers have been favouring this season.
5. Rock Lobster
John Varvatos chose to forgo a runway show, opting instead for an experiential presentation that paid respects to the Gods of Rock. Set at his Bowery flagship — the former site of legendary punk venue CBGB — attendees walked through a eerie maze of models all clad in distressed, subtly patterned suits and animal masks. The designer said he wanted to “do something different [and] cause disruption,” and he succeeded on both fronts.
