Blancpain Unveils New 42mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique
Blancpain & SHARP
Of all the important firsts in watchmaking, perhaps none has been as influential as the launch of the first modern diver’s watch, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, in 1953. Designed by Jean-Jacques Fiechter, Blancpain’s CEO from 1950 through 1980 (who was himself a passionate diver), it was the first watch created to meet the specific needs of professionals working underwater. The features Fiechter created to meet the needs of the era’s undersea explorers included 91.45 m (or 50 fathoms) of water resistance, a doubled-sealed crown, a self-winding movement with anti-magnetic protection, and a lockable rotating bezel. These features, plus its sporty modern look, made the Fifty Fathoms a major advance in underwater timekeeping. It has had an outsized influence on the looks and specifications of every dive watch to come along since.
In the 21st century, the Fifty Fathoms has lost none of its appeal and — thanks to last year’s best-selling Swatch x Blancpain collab — the iconic watch has found a diverse new audience among modern watch enthusiasts. This year, Blancpain adds another chapter to the ongoing story of the Fifty Fathoms with a collection of new 42 mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique models in red gold and titanium. Following last year’s launch of the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1 limited edition, which reimagined the Fifty Fathoms with a 42 mm stainless steel case, the new models add refinement, luxury, and performance to the Fifty Fathoms lineup.
Like the previous edition, the new Fifty Fathoms Automatique is powered by high-performance Calibre 1315, a self-winding movement designed, built, produced, assembled and adjusted in-house by Blancpain and featuring a five-day power reserve. The watch is also equipped with a stop-seconds function to enable precise time-setting, and the movement has been embellished with an 18K red gold oscillat- ing weight inspired by the rotor of the original 1953 model. Other signature features include a unidirectional sapphire bezel, 300 m water resistance, and a subtle date display at 4:30 on the dial.
New for 2024 are two new case materials: a red gold alloy with a uniquely warm hue and grade 23 titanium, which is renowned for its lightness, scratch-resistance, and hypoallergenic properties. Also on offer are a choice of two sunray-brushed dials in navy blue or black and a range of strap and bracelet options including sailcanvas, NATO, and a Tropic textured rubber version inspired by the 1953 Fifty Fathoms.
While the new 42 mm case size is a slight reduction from the 45 mm dimensions of previous modern-day Fifty Fathoms models, it’s a full-circle return to the watch’s original 1953 size. A 42 mm case was considered unusually large in 1953 when men’s watches were generally much smaller than today, but this size helped with both durability and legibility, one of many ways in which the Fifty Fathoms appealed to professional divers. More than 70 years later the Fifty Fathoms remains a consummate underwater tool and, thanks to the addition of two new case materials, a luxurious piece of horological history.