The Newest King Seiko Comes Straight From the 1970s
For the world’s small but extremely ardent cult of King Seiko fans, things got a lot more interesting this month with the release of the King Seiko VANAC collection. Colourful, angular, and complete with a 1970s-style integrated bracelet, the VANAC adds a shot of 1970s swagger to one of Seiko’s most covetable collections.
For those who aren’t yet indoctrinated in the ever-expanding Seiko cinematic universe, it’s divided into two distinct brands that share a similar corporate parentage and name, but little else. At the entry level is Seiko, whose Prospex, Presage, and Seiko 5 Sports models are a regular feature of every “best watches under $1,000” list. On the high-end is Grand Seiko, a luxury watchmaker whose zaratsu-polished cases, birch motif dials, and Spring Drive movements have earned it favourable comparisons to top-tier Swiss brands. Perhaps confusingly to some, King Seiko isn’t a third thing, but a historic 1960s Seiko sub-brand that was re-launched in 2022 as a new line (á la Prospex, Presage, and 5 Sports) within the Seiko family. Distinguished by a midcentury design language and an impressive level of finishing, King Seiko brings a unique vintage look and elevated details to the table.
The VANAC is the third King Seiko collection to receive a 21st-century refresh, and compared to the previously-reintroduced KSK and KS 1969 lines, it’s by far the flashiest. (For those paying close attention, Seiko is going in chronological order here, with the 1965 KSK followed by the KS 1969, followed by the 1972 VANAC.) What does VANAC stand for you ask? While the original meaning is lost to time, it now stands for Vibrant, Active, Novel, Alternative, Comfortable. Cool.
Like many of the most famous watches from the era of bellbottom jumpsuits and avocado-and-harvest-gold kitchens, the VANAC features an angular case and an integrated bracelet. It likewise honours roots with a selection of dials ranging from understated navy and silver options to purple and golden brown (anyone who gets the purple dial deserves serious props.) Per Seiko, the VANAC’s angular case and horizontally striped dial are inspired by the Tokyo skyline, with dial colours representing the colour of the sky at twilight, midnight, and sunrise, and a signature V-shaped marker at 12 o’clock.
By the numbers, the VANAC is on the larger side, with a 41 mm case that’s a substantial 14 mm thick. These husky case dimensions have been a sticking point with previous King Seiko models, and given that integrated bracelets tend to wear larger, it could make for a serious presence on the wrist. That said, Seiko brought its A-game with a new 8L45 calibre that’s billed as the most precise mechanical movement in the lineup, as well as a respectable level of attention paid to the finishing on the case, bracelet, and movement.
For the world’s many devoted King Seiko fans, it’s another one for the wish list, and for everyone else, an introduction to a hidden gem from the Seiko archive. If you like the look of the new VANAC, you’re in luck. This collection represents just one of a half-dozen original VANAC designs produced in the ‘70s, so with any luck there’s more where this came from.
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