Alpina Might Be The Best-Kept Secret In Swiss Watches
To look at the average watch dealer’s display case or the pieces that get seen and photographed on the wrists of celebrities, one can easily get the impression that there are about six watch brands worth knowing. This is an exaggeration, but only a slight one. Despite the hype around a few big-name brands and models, there are hundreds of reputable watchmakers out there, many of them backed by a century of heritage or more, and most of them creating watches anyone would be happy to add to their collection. Alpina, a Swiss watchmaker founded in 1883, is exactly this sort of brand. Their latest releases promise to expose the brand’s unique designs and extensive heritage to a much wider audience. It’s about time.
As the 140th anniversary of Alpina’s founding, 2023 is a momentous year for the brand, and its designers have clearly been working hard to make the most of it. While most of their catalogue is made up of quartz watches and mid-level automatics, Alpina dug deep for its biggest launch of the year, the limited-edition Heritage Carrée Mechanical 140 Years. Featuring a stepped rectangular case and a “petite seconde” dial, it’s a tribute to a pioneering design from the 1930s that incorporated new technologies to make it more dust-and-waterproof.
The most special thing about this watch, however, is the Calibre 490 movement behind the dial. Unlike most vintage-style watches, which pair old-school looks with modern movements, the Heritage Carrée Mechanical 140 Years is powered by the same 1930s-era movement as the original – one of a handful uncovered in Alpina’s archive and put to use for this launch. Due to the scarcity of these movements, which were made in the 1930s and have sat dormant for nearly a century, only 28 will be made in two 14-piece editions.
For anyone who doesn’t manage to snag one of the limited editions, Alpina has also introduced two modern versions of the watch priced at $1,995. The Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years has the same vintage look as the Mechanical, and the same choice of a silver and cream dial or a black dial, but a modern AL-530 Calibre automatic movement instead.
Alpina’s other notable new launch is as modern as the Heritage Carrée is retro. Since its inception, Alpina has specialized in tough, durable watches designed for outdoor use. In 1938 the brand introduced its “Alpina 4” concept, which codified this commitment under four pillars that continue to guide its designs: antimagnetic, anti-shock, water-resistant, and stainless steel. As a result, Alpina now makes some of the best professional-grade timekeepers in its category, particularly when it comes to the Startimer line of aviation watches.
The Startimer Pilot Quartz Worldtimer is the newest addition to the family and an easy standout thanks to its trio of colourful dials and GMT complication. With a 24-city world timer dial in three distinct versions (red/blue, green/black, and blue/black), a high-quality Swiss quartz movement, and an impressive level of fit and finish throughout, it’s a contender for anyone looking for a GMT in the under-$1500 segment. It’s also a great entry point into one of the most underrated Swiss brands, and a sign that Alpina is unlikely to remain underrated for much longer.