Technical Updates Take Charge for Tudor at Watches and Wonders 2025
Tudor has made a lot of different kinds of watches in its 99-year history (mark your calendars, 2026 will be the brand’s 100th anniversary) but these days it’s primarily known as a maker of some of the world’s best dive watches and chronographs. This year’s new releases at Watches & Wonders Geneva, the industry’s biggest annual trade show, did nothing to dispel that reputation. Evidenced by a new ultra-deep Pelagos diver, a new vintage-inspired Black Bay, and a host of incremental upgrades to best-sellers like the Black Bay Pro, Black Bay Chrono, and Black Bay 58, the brand continues to lean into what it does best. Who could possibly argue with that? Here’s a rundown of everything new and noteworthy from the house of Tudor.
Black Bay 58
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This diver’s retro look and vintage-correct 39mm case helped it gain the favour of enthusiasts, many of whom will now be seriously considering adding another BB58 to their collections. The most noticeable difference here is the addition of a subtly domed satin radial-brushed burgundy dial with silver accents and a matching bezel insert, but a quick look at the specs (and the small print on the dial) will reveal that this is the first Black Bay 58 to achieve Master Chronometer certification. For those who don’t know their COSC from their METAS, this means it meets a higher standard for precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness, and power reserve than previous models. ($5,640)
Black Bay 68
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For all the folks who love the Black Bay 58’s retro case size, there are just as many who wish it was just a teensy bit larger. Or so the release of this bulked-up BB would suggest. What we’ve got here is a vintage-style Tudor diver in the spirit of the BB58, including the brand’s signature “snowflake” hands, with a larger 43mm case diameter and a subtly domed satin radial-brushed silver or blue dial. And just to keep things even-Steven, the new BB68 is likewise equipped with a METAS-certified Master Chronometer movement à la the BB58. ($5,890)
Pelagos Ultra
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Tudor’s slogan is “Born to Dare,” and that credo has led to several pieces designed to stand up to extremely tough conditions. The new Pelagos Ultra, however, takes things significantly further (or deeper, at any rate) with 1,000 metres of water resistance. Just as most Land Rover drivers aren’t taking their SUVs overlanding in Mongolia anytime soon, most Pelagos owners aren’t likely to take their watches anywhere close to that depth. Still, like a spec ’d-out Defender, the Pelagos’ 43mm titanium case and proprietary bracelet adjustment system (all the better for slipping it over your wetsuit) make it instantly appealing to adventure-loving gearheads. ($7,470)
Black Bay Pro & Black Bay Chrono
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While most of the conversation in the Tudor booth revolved around the new Pelagos and Black Bay 58/68, incremental updates to the brand’s popular GMT and chronograph make them all the more appealing. For the former, there’s a fresh new opaline dial that doesn’t not evoke the Rolex Explorer II “polar dial” (although some might argue that the Black Bay Pro’s snowflake hands and yellow GMT indicator make for a more compelling visual package — that’s a debate for the ages.) For the latter, Tudor’s vintage-inspired chronograph has two dial options with contrasting sub-counters (“panda,” and “reverse panda” in enthusiast jargon). It also now comes with the option of a 3-link or 5-link bracelet, both with Tudor’s quick-adjustable “T-Fit” clasp. (Price varies with selection)
