SHARP’s Best Watches of 2023
It doesn’t matter what sort of collector you are, or what type of timepiece you’re encouraged every enthusiast to broaden his or her taste in watches. This year, brands at every level continued to lean into a growing global interest in the industry, and watchmakers new and old became more adventurous and creative than ever with their designs.
Among the many horological highlights of the last 12 months, we saw increasingly colourful dials, funky vintage-tinged re-releases, and curious collaborations. And, while these myriad developments brought about a boon for collectors of every stripe, they also made the process of choosing your next watch significantly more tricky. In the spirit of streamlining such a decision, then, here’s what caught our eye this year.
Tudor Pelagos FXD
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Sometimes small change are enough; when Tudor added a black dial to the Pelagos FXD, it was enough to make give this fan-favourite a bump in popularity. This go-anywhere diver remixes Tudor’s innovative one-piece case to celebrate the brand’s legacy as a tool used by U.S. Navy divers. ($5,100)
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36
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No watch exemplifies 2023’s hectic energy better than this extremely limited-edition Rolex, complete with puzzle motif dial in champlevé enamel. It was one of a couple of very surprising Rolex releases of the year, and considering the puzzle dial is officially unlisted online, odds of getting your hands on one are quite slim unless you’re a legacy customer of the brand who made important phone calls immediately after its release. (Price on request)
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40
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Gerald Genta dreamed up the original version of this classic design at the height of his 1970s hot streak, and it has lost none of its charm following a tasteful update this year. So many brands have been jumping on the steel sports watch craze to cash in on demand, but IWC actually has the history to give the new Ingenieur proper credibility. The fit and feel of its bracelet alone are worthy of mention, as is its muted green dial. ($15,200)
TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper
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Part of the “Glassbox” series of Carrera references that were revealed this year as part of the iconic model’s 60th anniversary, this update of the 1960s “Skipperera” yachting watch is catnip for collectors, and a colourful symbol of TAG Heuer’s ongoing renaissance. ($8,400)
Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42
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It’s been another busy year for Breitling, with new releases dropping throughout the year. Of the numerous standouts, a new Premier B01 chronograph — powered by the in-house manufacture B01 automatic chronograph movement — immediately caught our eye. A sumptuous salmon dial elevates this vintage-inspired chronograph to must-have status. ($11,800)
Cartier Tank Francaise (Ref. WSTA0074)
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The new Française, with its squared case and matching steel bracelet, proves once again that Cartier’s Tank can straddle sporty and refined aesthetics. It’s leaning in on ’90s chic, as the reference was launched in 1996 as the first Cartier Tank reference to be fitted with an integrated bracelet; whether it’s truly “integrated” is a point of debate, mind you. ($6,250)
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art
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There’s really nothing like the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art references, and 2023 did not disappoint. A tribute to Charles Darwin’s famed voyage aboard HMS Beagle, this masterpiece is painstakingly crafted from gold and enamel. (Price on request)
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SFJ009
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Created for the brand’s 110th anniversary, this stopwatch-inspired chronograph pays homage to Seiko’s illustrious track record in the world of sports timing. If you’ve yet to see the piece in person, it’s quite an interesting sight from a functional perspective. Swapping to chronograph mode via the lower left pusher, all hands zero to the 12 o’clock position, with the lower time subdial acting as the chronograph’s minute counter. For the first minute when the chronograph is running, the 1/10 and 1/100 second counters spin furiously until the stop or split button are pressed. ($1,425)
Longines HydroConquest GMT
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If Longines hadn’t already won you over this year, surely this recent overhaul of its storied HydroConquest will establish the brand as your new favourite watchmaker. This 41mm GMT surfaced earlier this year in four different dial and strap configurations, boasting the same 300m of water resistance and ceramic bezel of its time-only siblings. ($3,600)
Glashütte Original Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition
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Leaning in on heritage designs from back when Glashütte Original was under East German control (then known as GUB, or Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe). Part of an ongoing annual edition series, this chronograph looks even more irresistible with rose gold numerals and a smoky stone-effect dial. Fun fact, the dial pattern is created using a stamping tool that originates from the old GUB tool archives. ($11,100)
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 6000M Ultra Deep
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Omega’s home run this year was the brand’s extensive Summer Blue collection release, highlighting every variant of Seamaster currently on offer. The beast of the pack is the mighty Ultra Deep, Omega’s 6,000m deep diver embraces the blue colourway with ease. ($17,200)
Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001
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Grand Seiko can really do no wrong, but their latest hero release of 2023 immediately landed on our “must have” list. The brand’s first-ever automatic chronograph is as advanced as it is beautiful, with an industry-leading 72 hours of power reserve. ($18,500)
Hermès H08 Chronograph
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The French brand’s fun, sporty new chronograph proves that watches mustn’t be serious-looking to be seriously cool. The H08 collection was due for expansion, and this monopusher chronograph fits in perfectly. ($8,370)
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon Saxem
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The ever-polarizing Hublot enters the chat with a complicated skeletonized sapphire piece. Even for a brand known for its bold design, this tourbillon — with its acid-yellow aluminum oxide alloy case — still manages to stand out. ($264,000)
Chopard L.U.C 1860
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The L.U.C 1860 recreates its original reference from 1997, which was one of the most internationally awarded reference that Chopard has ever created. This model puts all that is great about Chopard’s legendary L.U.C manufacture on display, including the year’s de rigueur salmon dial. ($31,300)
Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Mechanical 140 Years
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Many of Alpina’s more recent releases are more sport-focused, making this Heritage Carée a welcome addition. A surprising and beautifully faithful heritage re-edition from one of the most underrated brands in Swiss watchmaking. ($7,295)
Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Power Reserve Big Date
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We’re always eager to see what Frederique Constant can cook up for a fraction of the price of similar watches from the Holy Trinity. With an in-house movement and an elite level of quality throughout, the Manufacture Classic Power Reserve Big Date can easily stand among Switzerland’s best. ($26,995)
Accutron Spaceview 2020
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The latest evolution of Accutron’s standout electrostatic watch harnesses kinetic energy to achieve remarkable accuracy. Slightly more modern-looking than its siblings, the monochromatic grey aesthetic makes it a touch under the radar. ($4,995)
Bulova Jet Star
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Bulova continues its journey through Neo Vintage releases, leaning on its vast archives; we’re not mad about it. Behind that attention-grabbing 1970s design is an eight-jewel quartz movement — vibrating at 262kHz — that is accurate to an impressive five seconds per month. ($795)
Citizen Tsuyosa
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On the affordable end of the steel sports watch trend comes Citizen, with one of the best releases its unveiled in years. Citizen has been making excellent timepieces for a very long time, mind you, but there’s something about this bold and affordable new automatic that has captured the hearts of the enthusiast community in 2023. ($595)
