100 Years Later: Introducing the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925
Longines x SHARP
It’s wild to think of how many significant contributions Longines has made to the world of watchmaking, and this past month marked the celebration of one of many milestones — the birth of the dual time watch. In 1925, the brand became the first watchmaker to offer a wristwatch that could display more than one time zone. The brand first rebooted the name Zulu in its modern collection in 2022 with the Spirit Zulu Time collection, but a centennial anniversary calls for something special, and Longines certainly delivered.
The popularity of dual time and GMT watches rests on a rich historical connection to the world of aviation — an area where Longines has roots far deeper than what’s seen from many other watch brands out there. Longines was named the official supplier for the International Aeronautical Federation (IAF) in 1919. In 1929, the brand worked with Navy Captain Phillip Van Horn Weems to develop the Weems Second-Setting Watch for nautical navigation, allowing pilots to sync the watch to radio data in order to maintain accuracy in the loud and shaky cockpits of early longer-haul aircraft. It was this innovation that provided the base for the watch that Lindbergh wore on his trans-Atlantic flight. The list goes on, but you get the picture.
Back to the watch at hand. The Spirit Zulu Time 1925 rests on the same platform as its current siblings, which is a very good thing. Longines opted for the smaller 39mm case for the anniversary model — the more compact variant that hit the market in 2023, on the heels of the original 42mm Zulu Time from the year prior — measuring a modest 13.5mm thick, which is suitable for a sporting daily-wear wristwatch of this nature. Its matte black dial keeps things subdued, while an elegant circular-brushed 18k rose gold bezel insert cap brings the requisite personality and character needed for such a fine occasion. This is also the first reference in the collection sporting engraved indices, standing out against the balance of the Zulu Time collection that uses luminous-filled indices in ceramic bezel inserts across all of its other references. The indices of the anniversary model have all been given a rose gold colour treatment to match the bezel insert.
Powering the new reference is the COSC-certified Longines caliber L844.4 — a self-winding movement delivering a power reserve of 72 hours and suitable resistance to magnetism thanks to its silicon balance spring. Based on the ETA A31 and developed uniquely for Longines in this application, this “true GMT” allows for on-the-fly adjustment of local time without disrupting the run-time of its movement. Especially given the modest price point of the Spirit Zulu Time collection, these caliber specs are nothing to sneeze at. Value has long been a key talking point when discussing Longines, and even in this special anniversary trim, we’re presented with a piece that is by no means exorbitant; its Canadian retail list price is $5,500.
We’ve seen incredible diversity over the years in how brands handle anniversary-centric timepieces, and I’ll be the first to note that I’m a fan of the restraint that’s been shown here. Despite the addition of its gold bezel, the Spirit Zulu Time 1925 is only $1,200 more than its standard-issue sibling. Longines could have easily decided to fit this piece with a steel-and-gold bracelet, or use more precious metals across the board. Instead, they kept things simple, all while ensuring the new watch wasn’t short on personality. That’s a solid win, as far as we’re concerned.
Learn more about the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 here.
